new member intro
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: michigan
new member intro
newb here mods are r&d rd2-110 ip,r&d stage 1 fuel injectors,r&d factory turbo upgrade,r&d 3" downpipe and elbow for factory turbo modified to stainless,r&d intake manifold modified to use factory breather, r&d-arp head stud kit, 7.3 ps intercooler, k&n air filter, hypermax cowl air induction, diamond eye 4" stainless exhaust,tripal disk tork, stage 3 red eagle clutches, derale transmission cooling pan, derale in-line fan thermostat switch, mishimoto heavy duty transmission cooler with electric fan, 4 gauge pillar pod with max tow double vision gauges oil pressure, trans temp, exhaust temp, boost. r&d main girdel orderd not in yet
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 5,552
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
<p>welcome to FTE.</p><p>sounds like you have a good setup there, except for the k&n filter. i would recommend you get rid of that before you dust the turbo and engine.</p><p>k&n filters are pure garbage and filter about as much as a window screen does.</p>
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 12
From: Ford, WA
sounds like you've got one bad a** IDI..have you dyno'd it to see how much power it's making?
like tjc transport suggested, ditch the K&N...I ran one of those on my old 1990 F250 that I used to have.. the engine ran worse with the K&N, than it did with the stock paper filter...I also ran one of those K&n cone filters on my 88 ranger.. and ditched it after I found out how much crud it was letting into my engine..
google: k&n vaseline test
smear some vaseline on the engine side of the air cleaner, and run the truck for a couple weeks.. check the vaseline smear, and see what the k&n is allowing in your engine..
like tjc transport suggested, ditch the K&N...I ran one of those on my old 1990 F250 that I used to have.. the engine ran worse with the K&N, than it did with the stock paper filter...I also ran one of those K&n cone filters on my 88 ranger.. and ditched it after I found out how much crud it was letting into my engine..
google: k&n vaseline test
smear some vaseline on the engine side of the air cleaner, and run the truck for a couple weeks.. check the vaseline smear, and see what the k&n is allowing in your engine..
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 100
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From: michigan
thanks. no dyno yet, oil pressure to low. going to do main,rod and cam bearings. rpms went to 4300 or 4500 with new ip. going to need that main girdel. trans went into neutral instead of overdrive.what filters do you guys run.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 132
From: Centerville TN
NICE setup!
Welcome to FTE! There's tons of great info here. The guys are very helpful and encouraging too.
Welcome to FTE! There's tons of great info here. The guys are very helpful and encouraging too.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Northern Arizona
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
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For the air filter, i see you went through some work to keep the oem air box. Honestly, that is the first thing i would ditch, followed by the filter. Build a box to house something like a AEM dryflow air filter. That air box is way restrictive.
Is cowl induction really any better than going through the core support? Seems to me like you would get alot more of a ram air effect up front as the bottom of the windsheild is a low pressure area. Beyond that, idk about you guys, but my cowl turns into solid ice if there is any snow (like right now).
Awesome setup though, ill be right behind you as soon as i can decide between 110,150,180
Is cowl induction really any better than going through the core support? Seems to me like you would get alot more of a ram air effect up front as the bottom of the windsheild is a low pressure area. Beyond that, idk about you guys, but my cowl turns into solid ice if there is any snow (like right now).
Awesome setup though, ill be right behind you as soon as i can decide between 110,150,180
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
Two things here:
1. An oil pressure of 12-18 PSI at hot idle is acceptable. These engines run at low pressure high volume.
2. If your oil pressure is at the low end of the spectrum, chances are it's due to the oil pressure regulator in the oil cooler getting stuck in the "open" position. These engines are designed to bypass extra oil and keep the pressures down(usually in the 20-40 psi range), but if the regulator gets stuck you can either get really low pressures at hot idle, or much higher ones at high revs.
I've not heard anything about worn bearings creating low oil pressure... the volumes are so much that the extra oil slipping past the bearings doesn't make much difference.
When I had my engine rebuilt, the bushings were quite worn according to my rebuilder. It still had no trouble making 16 psi at hot idle, but would sometimes make more, depending on how the regulator managed to stick.