So when I bought the car, it had a check engine light. I had it checked it said cylinder 5 misfire. I assumed it was the glow plug so I bought it and replaced the glowplugs myself. Check engine light went away for about a day then came back on. Got it checked again and still said cylinder 5 misfire. This is my first diesel and I'm clueless as to what's wrong. Any way to check what's wrong myself?

Also just to double check, the cylinder number is 1, 3, 5, 7 for the passenger side front to back right? And 2, 4, 6, 8 for drivers side? And front to back means when looking at the front of the car?

2001 7.3 Excursion Limited with 232k miles Bergen County NJ.

 

I've seen codes for cylinder misfire on my gasser, and it is a P030* code, with the * designating the cylinder. And, it was usually a bad spark plug, or a bad COP. The bad glow plug will be a P067* code, and P0670 indicates your GPCM....

 

****, I don't remember if it was a 67 or 670. Guess I need to go back. Also any tips on getting the furthest bolt removed on the back cover? I had such a hard time removing and putting on that last bolt because I can't see it and my hand barely fits.

 

Welcome to FTE. There are lots of helpful and knowledgeable people here and you are in good hands.

Link to DTC index:

» Ford 7.3L Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index

Your cylinder order is correct.

A shallow well swivel socket helps a lot.

 

Under valve cover harness issue? Bad injector, try a shim? Mileage is about right for a failure in that area. How does a buzz test sound? Is there an engine light on?

 

I'll be the self-proclaimed Valve Cover guru here. Not because I'm an expert mechanic - but because I'm such a lousy mechanic with rotten luck that I've had to go back in there no less than 20 times - plus I've helped other members under the VCs.

A 13mm flex socket is a huge help for most of the VC bolts. As for that back monster, I have this particular ogre down to a science. Get a deep 13mm socket and a U-joint, or your flex 13mm socket and a U-joint. I then use about 18" of extensions to reach back there from the socket drive (I use a cordless drill or impact driver). On the driver side, face the windshield and use your left hand to reach that back bolt, keeping your right hand free to turn the wrench or pull the trigger from well outside the engine compartment. The passenger-side back bolt gets the reverse treatment.

When installing the VC, make that back bolt the first one you insert. It's helpful to have the valve cover free-floating and the outer bolt holes visible for alignment.

 

I developed an alternative method for those difficult VC back bolts. It involves a 13mm socket,a box wrench, and a socket cap adapter,http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-...=G6]Sears.com]



You may also want to take the time to remove the front wheels, and lower the truck down onto jackstands, as far as possible without the brake dust shields hitting the ground. Alternatively, you could take the short cut of just letting the air out of the front tires; assuming you have a way of re-inflating them. If you do this, don't leave them that way for long (days, weeks,etc..), or completely deflate them, as you run the risk of flat spotting the tire, cutting it on the rim, or pushing it off the bead.
However you choose to do it, lowering the front end closer to the ground makes servicing the engine 1000% easier. I pulled the wheels off and dropped it on stands, the last time I went under the valve covers. I could reach all but the rear most VC bolts while standing on the ground. Laying down the tire and standing on it made it all the more comfortable, and I was even able to reach the back bolts. I small step-stool would also work. Your abdomen/chest,etc.. will thank you for not bruising it up laying across the motor.(even with a pile of moving blankets as padding).

As for bolt insertion order, I do it very different from what Tugly suggested. Those back bolts are the last to go in for me. I start in the middle and then alternately work my way out to both ends, similar to the proper torque sequence. As long as you only finger spin and just start, but not snug, any of the others, the back ones will go in fine. I prefer to not have to contend with the VC possibly moving/getting knocked out of whack while I'm trying to insert those rear bolts.

Once I have all the bolts started, I tighten them down in stages, starting with finger tight/snug. I start in the middle, and work my way out to each end, alternating top/bottom and front/rear half of the VC. This prevents warping/twisting the VC flange and causing a gasket seal issue/leak later.

Buuuutttttt..... Everybodies' body, strength, flexability, tool box, etc... is different. So, you'll probably need to "tweak" any method to suit you (except for the torque sequence).