The odd thing is none of mine ever leak or have leaked. When I took mine apart the first time whoever built the engine used anti seize and I noticed it had all worked to the shank area of the bolts. Next time I'll just use some sort of sealant. If there is a next time. The van however, is another story.

 

I've never used an air ratchet before lol. All I use are hand tools, 1/2" air impact and a 1/4" drive cordless impact.

 

This is more about the threads being sealed and not being able to size like the intake bolts did.
I'm not even sure which -if any- bolts go clear through into the water jacket.

Dodge made bulletproof engines with the 318 and the slant/6.
I had a work van that rotted to pieces around the 318 in it.

 

So far this 318 has been rotting to pieces along with the body . I think the 4 water pump holes go through on my 351W, as do the 318.

 

Well the new pump is in sealed and no leaks. New thermostat, radiator cap, and fresh antifreeze after a through flush.

I went and bought one of those turn any wrench into a torque wrench at Harbor Freight. Its was on sale and I had a coupon so I thought what the heck.

1/2 In Drive Digital Torque Adapter

That torque thing seemed to work ok I guess Im really not a car gadget guy but I know something was wrong with that torque wrench and I need to keep this thing moving. (Not that a new electronic gadget from HF (or any where for that matter) is fail proof. I was so freaked about the bolts, its been a long time since I have worn my mechanic hat. I KNEW those bolts were to tight I remember when I took them off they really were not that tight but I didn't want to re do them either. I guess worst case I would have had to just tighten them not tear the whole thing back down

I did end up putting pipe dope on all the bolts. The one at the very top of the pump the short one feels like its partially stripped. When I took it out the person that worked on it before had a couple of washers on it. Im assuming it was to try and grab some better threads. I tightened it as much as felt ok and then just left it. I figured if its ok its ok if not I will just deal with it later. Its right on top and I dont see any reason why I just cant tap it or even put a longer bolt and put a nut at the end there is room.

I have to mention that when I was refilling the coolant system I googled the capacity. I clicked on the first one It was pirate 4x4 and this was the response to a guy asking if anyone knew off the top of there head what the capacity was for the truck.
After Nobody replied he responded "No body knows" and below is what he got:

"I think it's more an issue of nobody cares to know.

Do like everyone else does. Buy 2 gallons of straight antifreeze, pour one in and then a gallon of water. Take the other gallon and mix it 50/50 with water in both jugs, and start filling her up. Anything left over you carry for emergencies or the next time you change it.

Don't forget to pull the block drain plugs to get all the old **** out.

My 83 takes close to 4 gallons. If you want actual specs, I'd recommend buying a manual."

Contrast that with further down the Google list to this site, same basic question asked on here.
ANSWER: "4.5gal"

I love this site.
I'm moving on to the electrical and a mystery noise in the left bank valve cover. But I will post in another thread.

 

For my personal vehicles I run 25% antifreeze which is the bare min recommended. For my truck it takes 4 gallons to fill it up from empty so I do 1 gallon pure antifreeze and then three gallons water and I am done.


At work I generally do 50/50 over 25/75 mainly because its a customer car and most of them are these new cars that run normally around 220 to 250F