water pump torque
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: CA
I'm just torquing now and 12-18 seems very tight but I have seen it multiple times at different sites and in the auto zone on line guide (no idea who publishes that info or what source it is from)
I'm afraid I'm going to snap one off. Either that or my torque wrench is shot
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,958
Likes: 105
From: Houston
be careful on this though, wouldn't be the first time ford had a typo on specs, the Yblock engines from the 50s ford said to torque the main caps to 112 ft lbs of trq when it should have said I think it is 95 ft lbs.
You also have to be careful and use antiseize on the ones going into the timing cover as they will strip out. That's what happened to my truck but I put some ultra black on the bolts that wouldn't tighten up and were weeping water and put it back in as a temporary fix. I am pulling this engine down the road for a 332 stroker. This engine has way too many issues that were bandaided by the engine builder that built it.
You also have to be careful and use antiseize on the ones going into the timing cover as they will strip out. That's what happened to my truck but I put some ultra black on the bolts that wouldn't tighten up and were weeping water and put it back in as a temporary fix. I am pulling this engine down the road for a 332 stroker. This engine has way too many issues that were bandaided by the engine builder that built it.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: CA
Whoa, are you telling me you mean everything on the internet is not absolutely correct and accurate?
I'm just joking with you. Trust me I hear you that's why I noted not sure where the info comes from.
Looks like I better re-calibrate my wrench. I rarely use it but something just doesn't feel correct. This pump replacement has gone so smoothly I KNOW I'm going to snap one of those heads off If I dont.
I'm just joking with you. Trust me I hear you that's why I noted not sure where the info comes from.
Looks like I better re-calibrate my wrench. I rarely use it but something just doesn't feel correct. This pump replacement has gone so smoothly I KNOW I'm going to snap one of those heads off If I dont.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,958
Likes: 105
From: Houston
Whoa, are you telling me you mean everything on the internet is not absolutely correct and accurate?
I'm just joking with you. Trust me I hear you that's why I noted not sure where the info comes from.
Looks like I better re-calibrate my wrench. I rarely use it but something just doesn't feel correct. This pump replacement has gone so smoothly I KNOW I'm going to snap one of those heads off If I dont.
I'm just joking with you. Trust me I hear you that's why I noted not sure where the info comes from.
Looks like I better re-calibrate my wrench. I rarely use it but something just doesn't feel correct. This pump replacement has gone so smoothly I KNOW I'm going to snap one of those heads off If I dont.
Im saying I would be weary of factory supplied torque specs also. But what was said is not very much torque to be quite honest but do put anti seize on the bolts that holds the water pump to the aluminum timing cover housing it will give you a better torque reading as the threads wont try to gaul up.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,977
Likes: 2,733
From: Virginia
I try to help people with torque values, but personally I never use them. I guess if you don't turn wrenches very often you don't have the feel for it, but you really don't need torque specs for simple things like this. The only time I get the torque wrench out is on head gaskets and more modern engines that use weird plastic/o-ring gaskets with aluminum and plastic intake manifolds.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,958
Likes: 105
From: Houston
I try to help people with torque values, but personally I never use them. I guess if you don't turn wrenches very often you don't have the feel for it, but you really don't need torque specs for simple things like this. The only time I get the torque wrench out is on head gaskets and more modern engines that use weird plastic/o-ring gaskets with aluminum and plastic intake manifolds.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,491
Likes: 26
From: Algona,WA
I just get them decently tight with a small handled 3/8 ratchet and use anti seize. Never had a problem. With smaller stuff I pretty much exclusively use 1/4" socket/ratchet sets now. WAY harder to overpower small bolts with 1/4" stuff than 3/8". Especially on small engines - what I work on the most. I do use torque wrenches for intake bolts and stuff along those lines that are more important.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,958
Likes: 105
From: Houston
I just get them decently tight with a small handled 3/8 ratchet and use anti seize. Never had a problem. With smaller stuff I pretty much exclusively use 1/4" socket/ratchet sets now. WAY harder to overpower small bolts with 1/4" stuff than 3/8". Especially on small engines - what I work on the most. I do use torque wrenches for intake bolts and stuff along those lines that are more important.
Then you have thoses of us that use 1/4 to 3/8 air ratchets and then wonder why there are issues. Probably why my original aluminum timing cover is stripped out when I went back together. Felt tight taking the pump off but going back on a couple wouldn't even tighten up. But screw it I am not going to pull the cover off I just covered the bolt in ultra black silicone and snuged it down to stop any leaks.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Antiseize is good for preventing galling of stainless steel and such, but expecting grease and powdered metal to keep threads from corroding in the long term (like how long it's been since you pulled that waterpump) is just wishful thinking.