Stuck valve
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Stuck valve
Hey I had problem trying to get my 57 f100 started and I checked inside the cylinder with my phone and saw I had a stuck valve. I know that's bad but all the rest are ok so is it broken or do I need to replace it? I haven't opened up the head gaskets cause I really didn't want to just yet
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Welcome to FTE!
It's not "good" but it's not really a show stopper either. If the engine has sat for a long time it's almost expected?
Is this a V8? Straight 6? Some of the engine guys will have more advice though generally the routine is pull valve covers and (carefully) free valves, check for push rod problems, adjust lifters, lube etc.
i like marvel's mystery oil in both the gas and oil for engines that have sat a while. It is a kind of penetrating oil and designed for this - stuck valves and rings.
It's not "good" but it's not really a show stopper either. If the engine has sat for a long time it's almost expected?
Is this a V8? Straight 6? Some of the engine guys will have more advice though generally the routine is pull valve covers and (carefully) free valves, check for push rod problems, adjust lifters, lube etc.
i like marvel's mystery oil in both the gas and oil for engines that have sat a while. It is a kind of penetrating oil and designed for this - stuck valves and rings.
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,512
Likes: 394
From: W. Central FL.
A 57 must be an OHV, six or eight. With a stuck valve, you more than likely have a bent or out of placed push rod. Remove valve cover and investigate further. You may not have to remove any head gasket.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2015
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Welcome to FTE!
It's not "good" but it's not really a show stopper either. If the engine has sat for a long time it's almost expected?
Is this a V8? Straight 6? Some of the engine guys will have more advice though generally the routine is pull valve covers and (carefully) free valves, check for push rod problems, adjust lifters, lube etc.
i like marvel's mystery oil in both the gas and oil for engines that have sat a while. It is a kind of penetrating oil and designed for this - stuck valves and rings.
It's not "good" but it's not really a show stopper either. If the engine has sat for a long time it's almost expected?
Is this a V8? Straight 6? Some of the engine guys will have more advice though generally the routine is pull valve covers and (carefully) free valves, check for push rod problems, adjust lifters, lube etc.
i like marvel's mystery oil in both the gas and oil for engines that have sat a while. It is a kind of penetrating oil and designed for this - stuck valves and rings.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
It's not uncommon for an engine that is sitting for a long time to have "stuck rings" or valve issues. As the engine is run for a while and put through its paces, the compression will come back up.
Now of course the CORRECT thing to do, is tear the engine down completely and spend several thousands of dollars having the block decked and bored out, new pistons, rods, rings, pins, valves, camshaft oil pump and water pump, radiator, heads milled, ported and flowed etc.
But many people have had good results with freeing everything up and running with that for many thousands of miles. Pull the valve covers for a start and see what's what. Remove spark plugs for easy turning of the motor itself with a wrench on the damper bolt.
The plugs probably should be replaced on GPs anyway. Now there COULD be a bent valve or whatever, but you have to look anyway.
Careful with running old, stale or varnished fuel, too. It will burn but sets up afterword into a sticky mess. Next time somebody tries to start the motor - bent push rods!
Now of course the CORRECT thing to do, is tear the engine down completely and spend several thousands of dollars having the block decked and bored out, new pistons, rods, rings, pins, valves, camshaft oil pump and water pump, radiator, heads milled, ported and flowed etc.
But many people have had good results with freeing everything up and running with that for many thousands of miles. Pull the valve covers for a start and see what's what. Remove spark plugs for easy turning of the motor itself with a wrench on the damper bolt.
The plugs probably should be replaced on GPs anyway. Now there COULD be a bent valve or whatever, but you have to look anyway.
Careful with running old, stale or varnished fuel, too. It will burn but sets up afterword into a sticky mess. Next time somebody tries to start the motor - bent push rods!
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New User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 21
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It's not uncommon for an engine that is sitting for a long time to have "stuck rings" or valve issues. As the engine is run for a while and put through its paces, the compression will come back up.
Now of course the CORRECT thing to do, is tear the engine down completely and spend several thousands of dollars having the block decked and bored out, new pistons, rods, rings, pins, valves, camshaft oil pump and water pump, radiator, heads milled, ported and flowed etc.
But many people have had good results with freeing everything up and running with that for many thousands of miles. Pull the valve covers for a start and see what's what. Remove spark plugs for easy turning of the motor itself with a wrench on the damper bolt.
The plugs probably should be replaced on GPs anyway. Now there COULD be a bent valve or whatever, but you have to look anyway.
Careful with running old, stale or varnished fuel, too. It will burn but sets up afterword into a sticky mess. Next time somebody tries to start the motor - bent push rods!
Now of course the CORRECT thing to do, is tear the engine down completely and spend several thousands of dollars having the block decked and bored out, new pistons, rods, rings, pins, valves, camshaft oil pump and water pump, radiator, heads milled, ported and flowed etc.
But many people have had good results with freeing everything up and running with that for many thousands of miles. Pull the valve covers for a start and see what's what. Remove spark plugs for easy turning of the motor itself with a wrench on the damper bolt.
The plugs probably should be replaced on GPs anyway. Now there COULD be a bent valve or whatever, but you have to look anyway.
Careful with running old, stale or varnished fuel, too. It will burn but sets up afterword into a sticky mess. Next time somebody tries to start the motor - bent push rods!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 830
Likes: 39
From: Whittier
I would remove the rocker arms and gently tap on the ends of the valve stems with a hammer. You will have to do it several times on each valve. You should be able to tell when the valve starts moving freely. Put a straight edge across all of the valve stems to make sure that they are all the same height. If one is shorter, it most likely isn't closing. Check for broken springs. It is difficult to get penetrating oil on the vale stem past the springs but it can be done. We do need to know which engine you have so that we can help you further.
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I would remove the rocker arms and gently tap on the ends of the valve stems with a hammer. You will have to do it several times on each valve. You should be able to tell when the valve starts moving freely. Put a straight edge across all of the valve stems to make sure that they are all the same height. If one is shorter, it most likely isn't closing. Check for broken springs. It is difficult to get penetrating oil on the vale stem past the springs but it can be done. We do need to know which engine you have so that we can help you further.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Yep. That's a Y block, has solid lifters. They are prone to this, best to check the push rods all for straightness. My theory is this happens because people don't adjust them correctly or, neglected to adjust them at all.
Most methods call for setting valve lash using a feeler gauge, the problem there is the rocker arm face does not wear evenly, a flat surface will bridge across the gap and make for excessive clearance.
When you go to adjust valve lash on your motor I would recommend this method, have tried several methods and find this to be both the easiest and most accurate. It is also consistent across all the cylinders and quick. Once the routine is down it takes about 15 minutes. You may want to mark your damper into 4 sections each 90* apart.
http://www.potomacbird.com/pctc/Publ...-valvelash.pdf
Most methods call for setting valve lash using a feeler gauge, the problem there is the rocker arm face does not wear evenly, a flat surface will bridge across the gap and make for excessive clearance.
When you go to adjust valve lash on your motor I would recommend this method, have tried several methods and find this to be both the easiest and most accurate. It is also consistent across all the cylinders and quick. Once the routine is down it takes about 15 minutes. You may want to mark your damper into 4 sections each 90* apart.
http://www.potomacbird.com/pctc/Publ...-valvelash.pdf
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New User
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Yep. That's a Y block, has solid lifters. They are prone to this, my theory is because people don't adjust them correctly or neglected to adjust them at all. Most methods call for setting valve lash using a feeler gauge, the problem there is the rocker arm face does not wear evenly, a flat surface will bridge across the gap and make for excessive clearance.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
See above for edit and link to Walt Nuckels method of Valve lash setting. It's not the only way to do it, but it sure works easy.
It is basically find TDC for each cylinder, adjust valve for "zero lash" and then back off 1/4 turn. It is quite accurate. Best that engine is warmed up, but can be done with engine cold, too.
It is basically find TDC for each cylinder, adjust valve for "zero lash" and then back off 1/4 turn. It is quite accurate. Best that engine is warmed up, but can be done with engine cold, too.
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