Hello all....Over the weekend I had a complete failure on my front right wheel bearings. Unfortunately it was very late and very rural, so I had to limp it home instead of parking it and towing it. Drove it about 18 miles very slowly while it grinded, rattled and all other bad noises. Got home and took the wheel off, everything was terribly hot. Let everything cool down and started working on it today. Both bearings were complete meltdowns. The outer race was partially sticking out and the only thing hold the rotor and probably the entire wheel on. It looks like at some point the hub shifted and now there is a groove in the bottom of the spindle. The groove is in front of the race for the inner bearing. The groove is pretty decent size, but since its in front of the bearing, will I be ok to just clean it up and move forward and replace the race and bearing?. All pending if I can get the race off to begin with. I am sure it is seized on there with all that heat. I have read that replacing he spindle knuckle is a real pain and they are dang hard to find it looks like. I know ideally I would just replace the knuckle too, but if I don't have to I certainly wouldn't mind not changing it out. I have been "told" that it will be fine but would like to hear from anyone with experience and or knowledge. Thanks in advance

 

If it is 2WD, then it has no 'knuckle'. It is just referred to as a spindle. The term knuckle is more commonly applicable to 4x4s.

Any scoring where the bearing rides and it needs to be replaced. Refinishing only removes material and it'll be toast again soon. Btw, you'll need to find 75-79 2WD spindles due to the kingpin dimension and the steering stop built into the spindle design.

It's not hard to change it out..... drive out the kingpin and install a different spindle... removing the kingpin is the crapshoot. Some are tight and some fully cooperate.

 

Thanks for the insight HIOSilver. The spot is in front of the race, I still haven't removed the race yet. Here is a picture of the spindle.

 

Yup.... time to replace the spindle.

 

'Tis toast. You might be looking at another rotor also. Don't forget to check the other side and repack the bearings. If it really got hot you might be into calipers and pads, just to be safe.

 

any idea where I can pick up another spindle at? The kingpins were replaced a few months ago when I had the DJM lowering kit installed so hopefully it won't be a problem to get them out.

 

I have checked with several suppliers looking for spindles with no luck. I think I would just go to a bone yard and pop the axle out of the one side.

 

Thanks for all the insight guys. I will be replacing the spindle just to be safe. Good thought on the caliper and pads too, might as well while I am at it. I plan on doing the other side's bearings too. When I lowered it, I hired it out, and they replaced the king pins. I guess those and the steering shaft is what holds it in place. How do I remove the spindle. I am pretty sure I can see how take apart the steering portion, but how do I disassemble the king pin? Looks like there is a nut on the top and bottom, but then what?

 

The spindle has threaded caps to hold the kingpin in place. It's easier with the zerk (grease) fittings removed. There is also a tapered bolt/roll pin which keeps the king pin from rotating in the I-beam journal and it needs to be removed first. Its nut is on the back side. You'll see it. The pin will need to be driven out with a drift,a scrap bolt, or a soft-faced hammer. Easy as she goes and avoid marring its threads... then remove the caps and drive out the kingpin. At that point, the spindle should be able to be removed (assuming the tie rod has been disconnected!).

Note that there is a bearing under the between the spindle and the I-beam and sometimes a shim or a stack of shims. The bearing is what the spindle rides on while steering.

Take a look at the exploded diagrams in your parts catalogs. Take some pics of the process so you can recall how it all goes back together.

 

Thank you again for helping me along here, it is really appreciated. Does it matter which way the kingpin is driven out? downward or upward? Funny you mention taking pictures, I do that all the time now. Much like about everyone else, I've learned that the hard way.

 

It's easier to drive the pin downwards cuz it's odd swinging a hammer in an upward direction and there is usually not enough room underneath to rear back. Let gravity work for you.

Btw, the more repairs you can do yourself the less it costs to enjoy these rigs. And you can keep that $70 hourly rate in your own pocket by working smartly - we'll be here to coach you so long as you have skin in the game - figuratively, not literally. Remember, these rigs were assembled by autoworkers with likely no more than a high school diploma and we all know you can do just as good a job.

 

your last line reminded me of a line my grandpa used to say when he was working on something he was unfamiliar with..."the guy who built this wasn't any smarter than me, he just knew what he was doing". Many thanks again for all the info. I located a spindle today at a salvage yard for 35 bucks. Bought new kingpin set and swapped it out. It was just as straight forward as described and luckily neither kingpin on the old or new spindle were seized. They both came out really easy. Thanks again

 

Great to hear and good job gettin' her done.

Gosh. I'm not that old. Waitaminute... according to my birth date I might be. In anticipation of a potential mid-life "crisis" the plan is to buy a...... Ferrari F355 Spider.

EDIT:... don't forget to pump 'er full of grease... And I'm talking about the kingpins.