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Thank you so much. I am going to look at this tomorrow. I guess just ask for the part but it seems so hard to find anybody in these parts stores who knows what I am asking for sometimes at first.
I took this other photo this morning after taking the truck down off the jack stands needed to put on the starter and new wires. Are you saying that the two bolts that hold these two u shaped holders are what I need to take out? It looks like 6 bolts on the bottom but if I took out the two--one is in the far left corner of the picture, that this might free the column. There are two bolts that might be what you said, I too the photo so can see the one on the driver's side. Please let me know....thank you Bobby aka Butch.
Will do, I looked up u bolts online -and they seemed more like skinny thin brackets, so I was reluctant to start taking that loose without a glance at what I was seeing.
Will do, I looked up u bolts online -and they seemed more like skinny thin brackets, so I was reluctant to start taking that loose without a glance at what I was seeing.
I miss-spoke when I said "u-bolt". I work on too many different vehicles, some do have something that looks more like a u-bolt, this one is more of a bracket or saddle. Been awhile since I dropped one of these down.
I tested the fuses today with the little circuit tester I had forgotten I had. I started checking fuses even though they did look good and found that the ones that didn't light up would not light up again when I moved a known good fuse. Could there be a common wire for those? I would have to look at a chart to see which ones but it was quite a few.
Know that some of the fuses will not have power to then till what they protect are turned on.
I think the dash lights and park / running lights are that way?
If you pull them out use a ohmmeter to check the fuse or a powered test light set up.
Dave ----
I have this old Cen-Tech multimeter with the ohm symbol on it, which belonged to my brother. But If I take a 15 amp fuse out that lights up with volt circuit tester and I move it to a location where another one is 15 amp and put the good one in there and it does not light up, are you saying I can use it to retest the circuit or and the fuse? I don't know to use an ohmmeter, even though I know some minor electronics from back to when transistors were coming out, a kids level, I built a radio shack kit once. But Multimeter, nope. I know what capacitance, resistance, volts, watts, etc. mean in a way.
Half of the fuse box has power all the time. The other half only has power when the key is turned to run. There is only one fuse that only has power when the switch is turned on, that would be the dash light fuse. Here's a diagram of the fuse box. You never said what year you are working on, but the original thread starter had a 86. Here's the 86 fuse box.
It is a 1983 F 100, they call it the 300. I did buy an old book online but it is copied page by page and not photocopied very good and hard to navigate and small images. That diagram looks similar if you have a clear one for an 83, It would be helpful and much appreciated.
I have exterior lights. So, maybe I need to get one of those little battery-powered testors to just test the integrity of the fuse. It could be that the others are not powered because the ignition switch or some thing directly attached to it might be burned or something. I mean the coil and the points might be part of the problem. My guy who does not want to work on it did say that the there was no fire going to the distributor, but my neighbor and old guy who used to work on old trucks said back when he was a kid, they would make a button and start the motor with that. He said that he had a special short battery wire that just popped off when you wanted it to. I will check back on this. I have something else to do for the rest of the evening. Thank you --feel like I'm making progress..
