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Oil Pump priming

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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 12:39 AM
  #1  
flyguy108's Avatar
flyguy108
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From: Lombard Il.
Oil Pump priming

Hi all,
I am about to do the lock outs on my phasers along with replacing all the timing chains guides ect... I also plan on installing a melling oil pump while I'm in there. My question is do I have to prime the pump and if so how do I do it without special tools.
Thanks in advance,
Tim
 
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 04:56 PM
  #2  
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F150Torqued
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Post OIL PUMP PRIMING w/o special tools

Originally Posted by flyguy108
Hi all,
I am about to do the lock outs...


...do I have to prime the pump and if so how do I do it without special tools. ...
@Flyguy108 I would say "yes" a new oil pump should be primed. There is a good video here: http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xgsd6o_how-to-prime-engines-and-oil-pumps-by-melling_auto .

As for doing it without special tools, I think I would suggest filling the new pump liberally with very thick / heavy lubricant (maybe 80 or 90w) before installing it, then prime the engine with a technique I use after each oil change. Press the accelerator all the way to the floor - then engage the starter, the ECU assumes a flooded condition and you want no fuel delivery, so it shuts down the injectors. You can run the starter as long as you think necessary and it will not fire. Then let off the gas, and fire it up.


But on a more important issue. Why would you want to install lockouts on a '06 model with 50-75k miles on it? You didn't mention any codes or drivability issues. But many on these forums get all up tight and paranoid about the diesel and tick noises that are normal on the 3 valve engines and opt to tear into them unnecessarily. Many well maintained ones go way past the 200k birthday. It's a shame to casually defeat a useful design feature that is built into practically every modern engine. The cam position the lock outs place the cam in is full advance (or NO retard). Unfortunately, this position is practically the operational exception for the Ford 3v engines. They are designed to run lean and develop good torque at lower RPMs and run lower combustion temperature by recirculating exhaust gases - W/O an EGR. The cams only return to full advance under heavy load, higher RPMs, or at idle. With lockouts, your engine will operate with the same efficiency in ONLY these conditions - of course without EGR capability.

See the post at: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15511326
A good description of VVT system is at:
Phaser-Style Variable Valve Timing Systems | KnowYourParts A link at the bottom gives more detail on diagnosing the VVT system.


Best of luck - whatever you decide to do.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 04:41 PM
  #3  
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flyguy108
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From: Lombard Il.
Well after much thought I have decided against the lockouts on the phasers. Mainly because no one can give a definite answer as to weather it will pass emissions testing here in chicago. Also a set of new motorcraft phasers is cheaper than the lockouts. I got the valve covers off and the right side chain is slack so that tells me tensioner/guide failure. I was throwing a p022 code and after driving for a while then pulling up to a stop light the engine would run rough and just about stall until you give a little throttle, then it would even out. It also had a little roughness at idle since I bought it so I changed all the plugs and coils and it smoothed out the idle but still performed the same after a drive, that is why I decided to open it up and look at the phasers and timing chains. Glad I did. Also if you have a phaser fail you still have to install a new one with the lockouts or noises will still be there. That was told to me by the guy at Livernois when I called them. I figured if I was going to open up the timing cover I was going to replace everything in it so it is all zero time at the same time. I will inspect the cams and replace anything if needed. I work 2 jobs so this will take a little while but will keep you updated on my progress. As a side note when I pulled my plugs I used the Ford carb cleaner as recommended but also some Hoppes #9 gun solvent and let them soak overnight and all but 2 came out in 1 piece and quite easily. The 2 that didn't, broke the insulators when I broke torque on the plug so I was screwed on those from jump street but the Lisle tool worked great.
 
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