So I'm studying up on this since I have not normal tire wear (outsides more than the rest) and don't want to get a alignment done until I replace what's needed (don't want to waste it) To make sure I'm on track:
1. Axle has to come out
2. Hub has to come off
3. New axle seal will be needed (special tool for that)

so for parts will be ball joints, axle seal, special tool for axle seal, 4x4 hub seals, snap ring pliers.

That pretty much it?

 

Yes you pretty much nailed it. Highly recommend going with MOOG problem solver ball joints. You can get them and all the seals and O-rings(for the hub) that you will need off Amazon.

It is a tough job so be ready. I would have a lot of punches and a good sledge hammer available as the hubs can be a huge PITA to come off. Air tools IMO are pretty much a must, or you will be some sore if not. Also I would have a pickle fork OR TWO for dislodging the ball joints once you have the hub/axel out.

Do a search there are several good write ups on the web for this procedure. Do it right and take you time and youll thank yourself for the 1500-2000$ shop bill your gonna save yourself.

 

First, confirm the balljoints are bad. First sign often is rust dust around boots especially if the boot is cracked, the number one cause of ball joint failure. Second is to check with the tire off the ground and have someone with a pry bar between the ground and tire lift and lower the tire while you check for up and down movement at the ball joint.

 

Curious what you use for snap ring pliers to get it off the spindle. That sucker was a bear!! I fabbed up a pair of long needle nose pliers and a spreader to get it out as I was in a time crunch and it was Saturday.

 

I assume some long straight ones?

 

 

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Yes hub/bearing comes off, axle comes out with the knuckle seal.

I recommend replacing the knuckle seal along with the hub/bearing O-ring, and there is an updated axle dust seal (you can see the old one in the last pic). Not sure about the locking hub, I think there is a paper type gasket.


Hardest part was getting the snap ring out. Those pliers were the only one's that would do it.

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It's one of those jobs thats not hard to do just takes time.

 

I hope to be doing mine this weekend after I pick up
the two missing snap rings. I got the new dust seals and
the hub seals. I thought with the price of that nasty big
seal in the knuckle being what it is that a new set of U-joints
would be cheaper than having to pull it again later. The U-joints
were about the same price as the seal.

Anyone use Ford ball joints and were the snap rings for
the lower ball joint in your kit or not?


Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

I went out to look at the parts and thought I would post
a photo of the new updated dust seal. it a cartridge type.
Only one part to put in and it goes into the yoke and not
onto the axel like the old style did. Here are the photos and
the sheet that came with it. DANA BTW too.













New Ford lower ball joint box


My nasty looking ball joint. Can't wait to see how bad it really is




Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Cool. Glad your feeling good enough to tackle the job. Wha5 was the price on the seal? IIrc the ford ball joints are spicer. I've been reading up since I got the truck and just can't make up my mind on what to get. I don't think ill go with moog that's for sure and I dont want any with the knurled flange.

 

If you like your alignment then don't disturb those bushings on the top ball joint. I index marked mine just in case they got bumped.

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The seal is $22. and change from Ed. I did pick up a set of Spicer U-joints to go in along with the ball joints.
For what I paid for the joints I need to look at my invoice to say.

Mine will be going in for a date with the rack to get it set up. Right now the sleeves are Ford factory 0
without the flats for adjustment.


Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

$18.28 at RockAuto with discount. That balljoint is $57.75 discounted but Ford does not include the snap ring or grease fitting.