Prepping for more power
* 15 psig Boost + on a Stock 7.3 is normal.
* BTM on 3.5" Exhaust AND Cold Air Intake as you mentioned will allow for approximately 60 available HP and acceptable EGT's. Basically you can go with 60 HP up to 8k lbs. and 20 HP up to 15k lbs. and be within any acceptable parameter. An EGT Gauge is a MUST!
* Your Wastegate can be controlled by the Tuner / Chip Guys.
First you need to identify any leak. This can take some time. I used to just listen until a Tech showed me how to get better results 20 years ago.
With the EOT = / > 140*F, cap the Turbo and pressurize to 20 psig. Wait for five minutes.
With some very soapy water in a large spray bottle, spray every connection, boot, inter cooler connection, etc. Soap the entire CAC Hoses with a brush. Often there are pin hole leaks in the field as well as at the bellows which can be difficult to find otherwise. This is most prominent on the Hot Side.
To check the up-pipes, put a rag or similar object in the Tail Pipe. Spray the Up-Pipes liberally. You may have to crawl under the vehicle.
The Waste Gate. Use a Pressure Pump and connect to the air chamber. At 5 psig the Wastegate should begin to move to the open position.
You may just require an adjustment. Perhaps the spring or diaphragm is leaking.
At 18 psig it should be entirely open. Look for rust and such around the opening. Use some emery cloth to clean it up as necessary. Do the same on the Air Chamber Actuation Rod.
Also inspect the EBPV for smooth operation and cleanliness looking for rust or contamination as with the Wategate's Pressure Valve.
If you have a loose CAC connection, disconnect and clean the connection, use Hair Spray and reinstall, **The Clamps should begin to compress the spring only when tightening**. Over tightening will deform the clamp and cause a leak.
Okay, now you have addressed all the leaks (if any).
Verify that MAP hose is not damaged, plugged or pinched, Verify that the green Wastegate hose is not plugged. Monitor MGP (manifold gauge pressure) and RPM with the SCAN TOOL.
As Mr. Tugly stated, a Scantool will assist in identifying issues on both the intake and exhaust side. Here are some Spec Delta's you should monitor and compare. They should be recorded BOTH on a cold engine < 90*F and hot => 140*F.
KOEO
BARO-Barometric/MAP-Manifold Absolute Pressure/EBP-Exhaust Back Pressures:
All three (BARO/MAP/EBP) should indicate atmospheric pressure (14.7psi at sea level) and read within 0.5 psi of each other.
ICPv should read 0.20-0.25 volts.
Oil Temp should closely match the current Ambient Temp.
KOER
Note: with the engine running, MAP and EBP = Pressure. BARO = Atmospheric Pressure + Boost".
i.e. BARO = 14.7 + 2 psi (boost) + MAP = 16.7.
PID: MGP (Manifold Gauge Pressure) doesn't augment the BARO PID with the MAP Data. = BOOST
Road Test - select appropriate gear to obtain desired engine speed and full load on engine (best accomplished climbing hill or truck fully loaded). Spec: MGP 15 PSIG Min
Here are KNOWN GOOD VALUES for Sensors so you have a Delta for comparison:
BARO: 5 volts in, @4.6 volts/14.7 psi at sea level, decreasing as altitude increases.
EBP: 5.0 volts in, 0.8-1.0 volts/14.7 psi
IAT: 5 volts in, 3.897volts@32°F, 3.09@68°F, 1.72@122°F.
EXBP 10-15psig w/ EBPV closed and not exceed 45psi at WOT
** Note: EXBP showing low (3-5psi) that barley rises with acceleration indicates bad sensor or plugged tube.
MAP: Frequency output; 111Hz / 14.7 psi, 130Hz / 20psi, 167Hz / 30psi.
Once you complete the above..... Add, Add, Add.
Hope this helps some..
The MAP and EBP values appear to separate out. At 1900 rpm I see MAP 14.8 and EBP 17.2. At 2700 rpm I'm at MAP 20.7 and EBP 27.3.
That would point away from an exhaust issue?
Thanks
Wink
When the exhaust was restricted at the tailpipe and a generous amount of soapy water applied those non sooty uppipes were leaking. Boots were sealed tight.
Dorman uppipes come in today through advance auto. The ebpv rebuild kit and the turbo reinstall kit coming from Guzzle.
Thanks for the help!








