2003 F250 engine noise
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
2003 F250 engine noise
Hi all, this is my first post here I think so let me start off with a hello! I have a 2003 F250 4wd with a 5.4 and 6 spd and 175,000 miles. Yesterday I came out to start it and noticed it had a ticking noise coming from underneath. According to the stock guage it had normal oil pressure and the oil looked nice and clean and was full. I checked it while running and was able to verify that it is coming from the bottom oil pan/bell housing area. Before anybody says exhaust leak, I just put on JBA headers a few months ago and verified it wasn't an exhuast leak. I was assuming it was a rod bearing so I figured I would let it get to operating temp and see what happens. once it started getting warm it started getting quiet and finally it just stopped once it hit full operating temp. Took it for a drive and found that it does it when in gear no matter what but stops when I put it in neutral and let out on the clutch. it makes the noise in neutral with clutch pushed in, but stops as soon as you let it out. Anybody ever run across this before?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
That is what I am thinking. Once it gets to operating temp in neutral the noise goes away, but if you barely push on the clutch pedal it starts again and the noise gets louder as you push down the clutch pedal. Any recommendations for clutches?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 43
From: Land of Taxes
Motorcraft or Google. Sadly never played with a Stick SD...plenty of muscle and vetts though...And with those I like to find the best or highest quality clutch I can afford. Even stepping up to a stronger unit (HD springs, dual disc etc...) when needed for higher HP applications. I would think you'd be good with OE Morotcraft unless your heavy towing?
Be sure to surface the flywheel and install all fasteners with a dab of blue loctite on clean threads and thread holes. Use the right torque specs as well.
Be sure to surface the flywheel and install all fasteners with a dab of blue loctite on clean threads and thread holes. Use the right torque specs as well.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Thanks for the info. I am probably going to go with a South Bend HD clutch. I have never been a fan of Motorcraft clutches, just my personal opinion, for no other reason than there always seem to be better options for the same price. The South Bend kits come with both bearings, the disc and pressure plate, and alignment tool. Not sure how much heavy towing I'll be doing but if I am going to do it I might as well do it right. I have done plenty of clutch replacements from cars to semis, just not sure how I am going to deal with that big honking transmission in my garage.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Inline66
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Apr 24, 2017 09:29 AM
Knotwild
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
10
Feb 22, 2009 11:05 AM
RangerSteve
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
3
Aug 22, 2008 11:05 AM
Ervin
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
6
May 11, 2006 05:31 PM
