a/c compressor mod
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Is this what you are asking about? http://www.dieselsite.com/maxacassis...4-200373l.aspx
I know that some of the FTE members have fashioned their own version of this, so there may be instructions out there if you look hard enough.
I know that some of the FTE members have fashioned their own version of this, so there may be instructions out there if you look hard enough.
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From: George West, Texas....
no the one i'm trying to locate has to do with the a/c compressor and shims or something like that but thanks for reminding me to put in a shut off valve in the
heater incoming line.
heater incoming line.
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The mod you are thinking of is to fix an ac clutch that fails to re-engage due to wear.
"Removing shims is a cure for the lazy clutch syndrome. As the clutch gets weak with age or the distance between the clutch plate and the pulley increases due to wear you can remove the clutch plate and between the shaft and the plate there should be some washers of varying thickness that can be removed. Idealy the distance between the plate and the wheel should be between .020-.030 range, but as wear increases I have seen a much as 3/32" distances.
Oops just reread you post sounds like you clutch disengages but wont re-engage?? If that is the problem between the end of the compressor shaft and the clutch plate there should be several washers of varying thicknesses. The washers will more than likely remain in the sleeve on the plate that slides on the compressor shaft. Only remove enough washers to get that .020-.030 gap between the wheel and pulley. If you do not have any washers it sounds like the clutch may need to be replaced. I replaced one on one of my other trucks and the clutch assembly was approx $100.00."
That is from a member here RedBoat on a thread here
"Removing shims is a cure for the lazy clutch syndrome. As the clutch gets weak with age or the distance between the clutch plate and the pulley increases due to wear you can remove the clutch plate and between the shaft and the plate there should be some washers of varying thickness that can be removed. Idealy the distance between the plate and the wheel should be between .020-.030 range, but as wear increases I have seen a much as 3/32" distances.
Oops just reread you post sounds like you clutch disengages but wont re-engage?? If that is the problem between the end of the compressor shaft and the clutch plate there should be several washers of varying thicknesses. The washers will more than likely remain in the sleeve on the plate that slides on the compressor shaft. Only remove enough washers to get that .020-.030 gap between the wheel and pulley. If you do not have any washers it sounds like the clutch may need to be replaced. I replaced one on one of my other trucks and the clutch assembly was approx $100.00."
That is from a member here RedBoat on a thread here
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From: George West, Texas....
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Last edited by krewat; Jul 10, 2016 at 08:15 AM. Reason: Updated to new website
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From: Asheville-where weird is
If the above link is down try this. There is a link to a pdf at the bottom of the first post.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...materials.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...materials.html
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bigslurrp
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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May 8, 2006 01:53 PM