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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 12:55 PM
  #31  
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Thing is I'm not sure I want to do it twice. I would rather just stick new ones in and be done.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 01:22 PM
  #32  
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Thomas, FWIW, don't worry about EOTs. When they get to 280* sustained, then worry. As far as EGTs, I worried until I continually ran mine at 1300 plus because I had no real choice and my engine is better than ever. Watch my video on my Texas Trip 2014 thread. You can see they are at 1300 for a few good pulls. Sometimes I think we overthink these trucks and towing what we do when you just have to go with what you have and make it better as you go. I have yet to see a thread on here where someone has melted a piston due to EGTs. Something to think about.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 04:08 PM
  #33  
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Thomas given your compression numbers on the one bank, I've got to believe if you had a bad one on the other bank you'd notice it. I think you should check the other bank, but for a moment let's assume it good.
I'd start with a true boost leak test, the campground test found the big holes, but you might have more. Empty driving its no problem to hit 18 psi boost in my truck. You should be there or higher towing with sustained high rpm.
I'm thinking your injectors are the most likely issue. Its amazing how much a rebuilt set woke up my 96. Nate has made some very good points about gearing and injectors too.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 04:29 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BBslider001
Thomas, FWIW, don't worry about EOTs. When they get to 280* sustained, then worry. As far as EGTs, I worried until I continually ran mine at 1300 plus because I had no real choice and my engine is better than ever. Watch my video on my Texas strip thread. You can see they are at 1300 for a few good pulls. Sometimes I think we overthink these trucks and towing what we do when you just have to go with what you have and make it better as you go. I have yet to see a thread on here where someone has melted a piston due to EGTs. Something to think about.
Yeah it was uncharted water there for a while, but I made sure to let it sit and idle whenever I was going to shut it off, I think thats the most important thing. I know these engines will take it, but gosh that seems hot.

Originally Posted by cowmilker08
Thomas given your compression numbers on the one bank, I've got to believe if you had a bad one on the other bank you'd notice it. I think you should check the other bank, but for a moment let's assume it good.
I'd start with a true boost leak test, the campground test found the big holes, but you might have more. Empty driving its no problem to hit 18 psi boost in my truck. You should be there or higher towing with sustained high rpm.
I'm thinking your injectors are the most likely issue. Its amazing how much a rebuilt set woke up my 96. Nate has made some very good points about gearing and injectors too.
Agreed. Nate made some great points that made a lot of sense. I just dont see 4.10s solving this problem. I know it would help, but it is not a solution. I think I may go the injector route first. What route did you take Phil? Did you do stock's or stage ones. How will the rest of my stock set up handle the stage ones, if I choose to go that route?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 04:34 PM
  #35  
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Do ones and if needed let tuning perfect it
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 05:41 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by madMatador78
Yeah it was uncharted water there for a while, but I made sure to let it sit and idle whenever I was going to shut it off, I think thats the most important thing. I know these engines will take it, but gosh that seems hot.



Agreed. Nate made some great points that made a lot of sense. I just dont see 4.10s solving this problem. I know it would help, but it is not a solution. I think I may go the injector route first. What route did you take Phil? Did you do stock's or stage ones. How will the rest of my stock set up handle the stage ones, if I choose to go that route?
Originally Posted by fordman67
Do ones and if needed let tuning perfect it
Yup. Your setup will be fine. Maybe an HPOP if you can swing it. Definitely tunes. Save for trans...

But test and test first!
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 08:05 PM
  #37  
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Agreed. Test first. Injectors are not cheap as I'm sure you know. I went with rosewood stage 1 but I don't have a chip or anything.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 08:27 PM
  #38  
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I've been told that below 350 psi on a cylinder is low, but what do I know.


Stage I's will go into my third build. If I get time I'm going to tear my mare's motor down and see what high EGT's have done. I have abused them big time.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 08:41 PM
  #39  
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I'll give you my thoughts on it Thomas. I agree with what everyone else has said, but as you know from discussions we had when you were at my house, I am a firm believer in 4.10s for towing. Now I'm not saying that is your problem, or that it is a fix all of any sort, but one thing you need to think about is what we discussed....the 3.55s and towing with those 285s. My opinion is, if you want to keep the 285s, which I think you should cause they are the best looking tires on these trucks in my opinion, and now that you have the bigger camper, and you have an auto trans, I think you should consider the 4.10s. There is only a couple hundred rpms difference in cruising speed. And just like Todd and Nate said, you have to keep these things in the higher rpms when towing. Not saying you can't do that with 3.55s, it just a lot easier with the 4.10s. I towed this old fifth wheel down here last week running 70-75 mph all the way. Like others have said, that is where my truck performs the best towing. I am running 2500-2600 rpms at those speeds. And you may as well not even worry about fuel mileage when towing. It is what it is. Another thing I would check, and I need too also, is your fan clutch. My truck has never offered to run more than a little over 1/4 of the way on the temp gauge while towing until week before last. I was towing a load of scrap, about 6500-7000 lbs., and when pulling long grades, the temp was going up about 3/4 the way up the gauge. As soon as I would get on the flat or down hill, it would cool right back down. Did the same thing last week towing the fifth wheel down here. I think it's the fan clutch going. Doesn't seem like I can hear the fan roaring like I used to. You may want to look into that on yours also.
All in all, and this is just my opinion, I think 3.55s, auto trans, oversized tires and a chip is the worst towing combo you could have. Not so much the injectors. Like I said, this is just my opinion, and I know the 4.10s aren't the answer to it all, but I do know that I have towed heavy, and at times stupid heavy, enough to know that I don't want anything but 4.10s for a truck that I plan on doing any kind of towing with.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 08:43 PM
  #40  
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Yeah, if that's the case, I guess I may want to consider finding a different engine. It does have a lot of blow by. Idk so many choices.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 08:48 PM
  #41  
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I have been considering it. And since it appears I have all the stuff to do it, it may be more cost effective to swap gears on the rear than the front. Idk. I'm going to have to think on it real hard.

I could hear the fan roaring away. It would slow down then speed up then slow down. Idk if that is normal operation.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 08:51 PM
  #42  
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Plus that rear axle of mine is going to need attention sooner than later.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 09:04 PM
  #43  
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I think that may be your best option since you need to do something in the rear end anyway. Like I said though bud, this is all just my opinion. I'm not telling you this is what you NEED to do. It is your decision what you want to do with your truck, and you know your truck better than anybody. All I can tell you is my experience with towing with these things.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 09:07 PM
  #44  
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I think what Bill said here is true. I also think what Nate said is true. Here is my one cent from my towing experience. I don't care how it looks on paper. Towing with higher gears performs better, period. Now that just comes from a LOT of hauling big trailers coast to coast whether they be my RV or hauling a load of horses. The one thing I have noticed is that, while you might be able to keep the RPMs up there, doing so is much easier for any power plant if it doesn't have as tall of a gear to turn. think about pedaling a bike. No matter how fast or slow you are going, your legs (which would be the powerband in your engine) have a much harder time turning sprockets when you are on the high ones rather than the low ones no matter how fast you are traveling. The same physics apply, no matter what power plant is doing the work, whether it be your Powerstroke or your legs. Make sense? Now that being said, do I think gearing will fix everything? No. Do I think it will help? Absolutely. Will injectors help even more? I am guessing that is the culprit here. But also, none of us can really tell you what's going on without riding with you and feeling/seeing what's going on as well.

Another example. My 2006 Dmax with 3.73 would pull like a stuck mule, but up against my 2005 Cummins with 4.10s pulling the exact same trailer was no contest. That Cummins (both stock with exception of exhaust)would out pull that Dmax off the line and up a grade loaded, but the Dmax had more power (listed anyways).

One other thing. To be more clear about oil temps...I had the same concern when mine hit 245* the first time I could actually monitor them. I did the same thing and would pull over to cool them down. I literally changed my 203 thermostat at a rest stop and that brought them down considerably. I did some other research though for peace of mind and education. What I found out is that HD oils don't even start to break down and fail until sustained temps of 295-300*. Most race cars run their temps at 280* sustained for a good amount of time and have no issues, and those engines are working MUCH harder than any of us could work ours short of being loaded with 25k pounds and trying to pull Donner pass.

That's my one cent from my experience towing. Even my first diesel, which was a 1999 6.5 GM/Detroit years ago, burned up the alternator before the engine itself even began to act tired...and the engine never did. The 7.3 is miles and miles above that engine, so I wouldn't even worry. Heck, if you really want to feel confident, fly down to see Travis and let him take you for a spin in his OBS. You'll be convinced that a person can seriously beat the absolute crap out of one for a good hour and then drive down the road like nothing happened....and you'll smile while doing it. Ask me how I know. Cheers!
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 09:08 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by ReBilld
I think that may be your best option since you need to do something in the rear end anyway. Like I said though bud, this is all just my opinion. I'm not telling you this is what you NEED to do. It is your decision what you want to do with your truck, and you know your truck better than anybody. All I can tell you is my experience with towing with these things.
I think this hillbilly has much wisdom here...heed it! Hi Bill!
 
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