First off I decided to replace the entire system due to the labor cost for A/C work. I figured I could replace the system cheaper that having the compressor replace by a shop. That was my mind set so that's what I did. I also decided to go through the front just for easy access. I know those that do this work for a living would say that is insane, but it’s just a little extra time to get right at it. Besides, working to some Merle Haggard and George Jones will make for a good day…


I am going off of memory, so don’t be too harsh on me. J

Removing the compressor –

· Bumper – 4 bolts in the front, one on each side on the support bracket.
· Grille – 4 screws on top and 4 clips at the bottom.
· Head lights, 4 screws each
· Grille support 4 bolts on each side.
· Condenser – 2 brackets and 4 bolts.
· Intercooler – both intercooler pipes removed
· Transmission cooler – 4 brackets and 4 bolts
· PS cooler – 2 brackets and 2 bolts
· Radiator support 8 bolts
· Radiator – 2 brackets 4 bolts. Transmission lines (requires a special tool) reference the one Rusty posted. Upper and Lower radiator hoses.
· Radiator shroud.
· Stator – 4 bolts with an impact.
· Fan nut - Borrowed brothers fan wrench
· Lock belt tensioner and remove belt.
· Remove tensioner – 2 bolts
· Remove starter cable bracket – 1 nut and the bolt
· A/C Compressor has 1 connector, and 3 bolts. The 2 front bolts are 10mm and the bottom rear bolt is a 13mm. Ratchet wrenches make removing the compressor a breeze!!
· High pressure switch –

Evacuator and dryer –

· Remove the orfice tube connection using an A/C fuel line disconnect tool.
· Unbolt the dryer from the evacuator
· Remove the dryer by removing 3 screws.
· Remove the oil fill tube.
· Remove the nut holding the transmission dip stick and move the dip stick aside.
· Remove aluminum heat shield. Kind of a pain due to the lack of room. I have baseball mitts for hand so this wasn’t fun.
· There are approximately 8-10 screws that will need to be remove from the top and right side of the HVAC box. I used a an air ratchet with long extensions for the rear.
· Remove the evaporator cover
· Remove the evaporator.
· At this point your are done removing “stuff”. Gingerly start putting everything back together. Take your time to fit everything together without damaging orings!!

Other things I did to while in there:

· Remove the starter and installed Fomoto valves on the block.
· Flushed cooling system and installed a new Motorcraft thermostat.
· New upper and lower radiator hoses
· New drive belt

 

Nah, the wife uses them to drive at night!

I wish my leak showed up like that. I am wondering if the compressor was leaking behind the clutch??? What I can tell is there was PLENTY of dye in the system that it should have shown up.

 

Oh and a couple of obvious things I misses was removing the MAP bracket and HVAC support bracket on top. Those fire wall bolts were LONG winded... Just sayin!

 

No complaints here!!

 

I did the same thing you did thru the fender.... almost wished I went this way, much room to work and you got a couple extra things done while there... nice job!

If you could estimate the time to remove the front to get down to "the work", please?

 

I helped my brother rebuild and replace his 6.0 so I've done this before so I had some previous experience. That being said, 1.5-2 hours for 1 person and 45min-1 hour for 2 people. It's just time, none of it is hard, and I would rather take a little extra time to make the job easier.

 

That orifice tube looks like you were growing weed in it. lol

 

I have no idea what you are talking about!!

 

And that's what I was saying. That much oil has to go somewhere. I was stoked to see it work.