My throttle bell crank is buried back there like newold46's. If you have the v8 bell crank you could modify it to fit the 6.
Here is a pic of an f-1 with a 6 cylinder to give you an idea.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-throttle.html

 

Thanks for the pictures guys. I should be able to modify my current pedal to work.

 

Started wiring the truck. Going well. Should finish it up Monday. Have to seal the gas tank and run gas line then it will be ready to dive. In 2 weeks I will hopefully drive it home which takes 2 hours doing 70 mph, fully expecting it to take twice as long haha. Just have to wait on my title. Hoping that it will get here next week.
Huge thank you to all the people that have taken time to help me out on the things I didn't know. Couldn't have gotten stuff like the pedal done as fast without your pictures and diagrams.




Class pedal car projects.














Started wiring





Heating rod to bend for gas pedal





Final product. Blasted and painted after this picture.

 

Very nice fab job on the gas pedal and chain shifter. Those pedal cars are really cool and look great! Go Steelers!

 

Having a couple issue now. Been driving the truck to my new job but now the transmission has a fairly loud gritty sound when it is in neutral with the clutch engaged. (1) If i push the clutch in the noise goes away. I'm not sure if I just didn't notice or if something changed. (2) Also if I slowly creep into the gas it sounds like I have a very large cam in the motor. Now due to having so much going on and having to wrap the truck up in such a short amount of time realized I never changed the plugs. I will be doing that tomorrow and re checking the gap on the points. (3) Also the top of the distributor rotates even though the bolts are tight. Is there possibly a bolt I'm missing? I know of the one that goes into the block and the strap around it. Trying to get these bugs worked out so I can take a 3 hr drive home in late July to take it to a car show.

 

#1 Sounds like the throw out bearing to me. Replacing that should take care of the second problem. I have no idea on #3 I have the older 6 banger and nothing moves when it's bolted down.

 

I guess I forgot to specify that it is in neutral when the motor starts loping. That's what is leading me to believe its an ignition issue. Appreciate the fast response.

 

(3) Also the top of the distributor rotates even though the bolts are tight. Is there possibly a bolt I'm missing? I know of the one that goes into the block and the strap around it.

It looks like the strap or clamp around the distributor on your engine may be stretched to the point where there is no gap anymore to allow the clamp to work. The distributor should not move after it is clamped.

 

This is my first time checking out the thread and the work you have done on your truck. You've got a nice one there and I'm impressed with your determination to stay after it and get it on the road. Hope you are able to get the current issues resolved and start logging some serious miles. Well done!

 

Thanks! I've wanted it ever since I saw it when I was 13 or 14. Still have the drive to get it reliable and on the road.

 

OK, so I found what was grinding in my transmission. The hub for the throw-out bearing is rubbing the fingers on the clutch. Is is possible to grind the edge down? or is there something else wrong causing this issue?

 

Also, this bearing retainer-7050 should have no wear so that the throw out bearing will slide on it easily.

 

Now I feel bad. I totally forgot to warn you about flywheel and throw out bearing bearing changes between 49-51 cars and 49-51 trucks. The car uses a 9.5 inch pressure plate and smaller throw out bearing. The standard F-1 clutch is a 10 inch unit that uses the same throw out bearing as the earlier Ford cars and trucks. You have the correct truck throw out bearing. You need the truck pressure plate to work with the rest of the truck clutch parts. You must have a truck clutch disk since your transmission is installed. I don't know if the 10 inch truck pressure plate will bolt onto the 9.5 inch car flywheel or not.

I just did the opposite operation for my 53 sedan equipped with the 215 overhead six. My car pressure plate was causing fits. I installed a Mercury pressure plate. In order to do this I had to drill the flywheel for the Mercury pressure plate bolt pattern and make a couple adapter spacers to fit the larger throw out bearing onto the smaller diameter car hub. The flywheel drilled and tapped really easily.

Worst case scenario you disassemble your truck to pull the clutch and flywheel out, purchase a new pressure plate, then drill and tap your fly wheel. Best case scenario you have to disassemble your truck to pull the clutch and flywheel out, and you have the parts already to swap in. Either way you are pulling things apart again. Bummer.

 

I have all truck parts but they are from different vehicles. They are all 49 parts but the motor is from a car, flywheel from a cab over and the transmission is from an f3 i believe. I have the motor and tranny out of the truck right now. I didn't want to keep driving with that grinding noise and smoke the whole transmission. I'm thinking I will buy a new hub and bearing to see if that fixes my issue. Or I will grind the inside of the hub or the tips of the fingers. Not really wanting to grind the fingers since the pressure plate is balanced if I'm right. I've also got to replace intake, exhaust gaskets, and replace gaskets on the oil filter and transmission. Thankfully I have a garage to work in.

 

I would not grind on the hub or pressure plate fingers. What is the pressure plate from? If the pressure plate is from the car then that is your problem.