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20 ton H frame press where the tack weld for the bottom cross-brace, 90 degree angle iron, approx. 1/16-1/8" thick, separated from the frame, so I removed and prepped and now I want to tack the brace back in place.
I have an oxy/Acetylene set up but never learned to use it. Only have flux coated brass rods, brazing rods, and plain mild steel rods but I do not know if any of them would work?? Comments suggestions appreciated.
As for gas settings thought I would start with Acetylene at around 7, and Oxy. at around 150 and check the flame to determine if it will lay bead??
Ok, yes that can be easily welded with the oxy/acet set-up...
5-7 psi is fine for the acet, 40 psi is more than enough for the oxy......
Just remember, at 15+ psi, acet becomes explosively unstable!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You can lay a bead with brazing tips, but, always check the torch tip size for specific psi specs......the above psi I mentioned is fine for most moderate size welding tips....for brazing tips....
here's a link for tip size/metal thickness/flow psi:
Thank you, the link and comments is very helpful!! I have 4 different size tips, #2-3-5-and 6. In my comment regarding the oxy. setting I went back and noticed the regular has 2 different scales so the 150, not sure in what scale, computes to around 20 plus PSI, which according to the chart is way too high for my project.
i would not gas weld it, i would a mig welder or a stick welder and get a good penetration. i would also do at least 1 inch of weld in at least 4 places, not tack weld.
The piece intend tacking back in place is approx. I 1/2" 90 degree angle iron and there's not much welding surface to work with. Since I have the Oxy/Acel set up probly give it a try. Recently swapped truck part for a antiquated Miller 155 and appears to be in good condition, as yet not fired up. Since my experience with a Mig welder is less than that of Oxy/Acel thought I would take it to a Miller distributor and have them go thru it and instruct me on how to use. As yet I am not wired for 220v, figure temporarily use 55k watt generator.
You can't make a proper weld with a cutting tip on the torch, it's just too much heat. Use a welding tip, and set both acetylene and oxygen to the same PSI as the tip number, IE if the tip is a 3, set them both to 3psi. Also use a #5 shade filter in a welding hood or you'll cook your eyes.
As far as the electric welder, if it's a small 5500watt household style generator, it and the welder will not get along. If it is a large 55kw then it may have enough mass to smooth the spikes involved in welding.
i would not gas weld it, i would a mig welder or a stick welder and get a good penetration. i would also do at least 1 inch of weld in at least 4 places, not tack weld.
IMHO, the problem with a mig welder is operator lack of experience.......the weld can look very pretty, visually matching all the pics in a book of what a good weld should look like but without formal training in metal temps (visual coloring), most of the welds I have seen (50%+) in the past 20 years (that appear to be correct) by the untrained are actually poor quality. The gas torch is more than adequate for welding (even with a brazing tip) and because it's slow, the beginning welder will learn heat color recognition, metal densities, etc....and become a real good welder......eventually migrating to arc or mig.
Attempted gas welding in the past and would never post pic's, too embarrassing, welds tend to come out a globular mess. Confident the link with info on settings, tip size, etc. will result in much better outcome, no question settings I used in the past were way too high and used the wrong size tip.
I was about to weld the brace when I detected a possible leak in the Oxy regulator so decided to hold off and take it to the shop and have it checked out. Hardly use the set up but since it's a 75 mile trip thinking about taking the tanks and exchange for replacements?
IMHO, the problem with a mig welder is operator lack of experience.......the weld can look very pretty, visually matching all the pics in a book of what a good weld should look like but without formal training in metal temps (visual coloring), most of the welds I have seen (50%+) in the past 20 years (that appear to be correct) by the untrained are actually poor quality. The gas torch is more than adequate for welding (even with a brazing tip) and because it's slow, the beginning welder will learn heat color recognition, metal densities, etc....and become a real good welder......eventually migrating to arc or mig.
i agree on the novice mig welding, and i don't like using a 120 volt unit because of the lack of penetration.
i have one, but only use it for sheet metal. i use the large 240 volt unit for heavy metal (up to 3/8 inch) anything over 1/2 inch get welded with the miller bobcat 250 stick welder.
i very rarely gas weld, because it takes too long to get it done, and you just don't get the penetration as a mig or stick welder does.
Believe the Lincoln 155 is a 240v unit, already purchased the helmet and equipment to connect gas. I originally purchased the welder for the 64 project, next on the agenda is floor pans.
Years ago I laid 100' of conduit and wired for 120v but removed the wiring for landscaping purposes. Already have the wire to run for 240v but remodeled and ran a sub panel for additional home circuits and now it's questionable whether the main panel can take any additional circuits, especially 240v??
Once I have addressed the power issue intend purchasing 1-2 'how to' DVD and figure with practice should be able to lay a decent bead??
even a 50 amp service will power the 155 welder as long as you do not have everything in the house running.
i have 150 amp service in the house with a 40 amp service out to the home garage. i can run the air compressor, lincoln 215 power-mig, stereo, 8 florescent lights, and a 48 inch diameter fan with no problems.
Perhaps run 240 to sub panel closer to the 20x20 metal building where I can run the 240 and perhaps branch off for a 120 circuit?? The building is wired with 3-4 120 outlets and ceiling lights that run the length of the building; unfortunately, not functioning since I removed the wiring but seems all I need to do to connect the 120 outlets and lights is run the 120 to the building, and logistically decide where to install the 240 outlet.
i would run the240 out to the building and then run the lights and other 120 stuff off one of the legs. i have 240 hard wired to the rear of my building where the compressor is, and a 240 plug under the panel at the front door to use the welder outside. i also have a 35 foot 240 extension cord if i need to go farther away from the door.
plus, if power goes out i fire up one of the generators and plug into the 240 outlet after turning the main in the house off, and have everything powered back up until street power comes back on.
i would run the240 out to the building and then run the lights and other 120 stuff off one of the legs. i have 240 hard wired to the rear of my building where the compressor is, and a 240 plug under the panel at the front door to use the welder outside. i also have a 35 foot 240 extension cord if i need to go farther away from the door.
plus, if power goes out i fire up one of the generators and plug into the 240 outlet after turning the main in the house off, and have everything powered back up until street power comes back on.
Have a 15' welder extension cord, prefer working on a project outside. It would not be a problem installing a sub-panel just a matter of T'ing off the existing conduit.
When I take the regulator in for check up will inquire about selection of welding rods suited for various uses and purchase an assortment. .
Many years ago installed a 240v outlet to use during power outages where I hook up the 55k generator. The outages occur on occasion, yesterday for example, but works great, and over past 40 plus years it is a matter of turning off main, turn on 240v breaker then continue working on projects, or family entertaining until the power comes back on, it make extended power outage somewhat tolerable. Having said that, U be getting me thinking, I should be able to run wires from this 240v outlet to a sub-panel closer to the garage structure, thus no need to run extra wires from panel. or