Novice welder. Went and exchanged for fresh bottles of oxy/acetylene tanks today and on the way picked up some metal for project I started. The metal is approx. 1/8" thick, couple pieces slightly thicker. When I asked the salesperson if he could recommend welding rod, he thought the metal was too thick for welding using oxy/acetylene, and suggested an electrode type of welding unit. Well, if I had another welder I would us it, unfortunately only have gas. Not knowledgeable enough to argue and not sure if trying to sell me a welding unit. Never did rec. type or size rod. Thought would check and see if anyone with experience is of same opinion the 1/4" or slightly thicker is not suited for oxy/acetyline. Have Victor regulator setup and few size tips. Unless advised otherwise, considering using #5 tip, set acetylene about 7, and oxy. about same, 3/16" rod , says 1060 on container, and see if able to get a decent bead. Imagine with this combination will be able to hear the tanks suck try within relatively short period of time. Making a car dolley, although even with best welds would never get under vehicle without backup and additional stands. Anyhow, any suggestions, input would be appreciated.

dave

 

If the material is 1/8" thick u can gas weld w/ a torch,its just gonna take a while.Another option is if u are building the car dolly yourself cut all the pieces to length and then draw a blue print of it and take the pieces to a welding shop and have them weld it together for u.
Or u can build the thing,tack it together and take it to someone to have it welded.

Dan

 

O/A is very suitable, with larger tips and higher oxy pressure, of welding thicker metal like you have. The clerk was not helpful. One problem that you might encounter is more warpage. The flame tip is going to be neutral but not particularly narrow in where it puts the heat. Electrode style welding is more concentrated with its heat--with arc/stick being the least and MIG, then TIG being the most concentrated. You are on the right track.

 

Appreciate the info. Will go ahead and tack the pieces together and if not satisfied how the weld turns out I will take the project to a shop. Did find a weld shop that's reasonable I have used in the past.Thanks for the info.

dave

 

one idea, if you end up to where you are going to pay a shop and it comes out to a couple hundred bucks you could buy a decent lincoln buzz box that goes up to 220 amps and then have the equiptment sitting in your shop to boot. I'm thinking lowes and home depot sell that machine for under 300 and you could get one used for considerably less.

easy sell for me.....but i always have that darn itch...IMO you would want 200+ amp (stick)for jobs such as yours. I have 130-140 amp lincoln mig and I'd do it with that but wouldn't do it near as well and would have to cycle it to best stay in the welder's range.

Ive used the cheap 100amp boxes and they're junk imo

 

THought I would try a 'do it myselfer car dolley' to get the body off the chassis so I can install floor pans, work on the chassis, etc. Trying to build structurally sound but as cheap as possible. If weld shop quotes around $100 then will likely go that route regardless of how well my welds came out. Novice at welding, understood the mig would be more suitable for the overall restoration of the vehicle, floor pans, quarter panels, don't see need for any major structural welding. Seems unless I can get access to 220 Volt outlet I am going to be limited regardless of the type of welding unit I purchase. Had a 18 X 20 metal structure, poor man's garage, installed as a temp. fix until able to build garage next year. At this time, only have access to 120 volt circuit, with a long extention may be able to use 220 outlet but questionable whether it would work. For the short term, once the dolley is assembled, thought I would pick up an inexpensive 120 unit so I can install the floor pans then upgrade to a 220 setup at a later date.

dave

 

Torch welding is a bit tricky to do right..too much heat on the weld and steel makes it brittle,not enough and no penetration makes it very weak.
Just my opinion,you can get descent used 120 MIGs or even just cheap fluxcore machines pretty cheap used anymore on ebay or flea markets etc.
And there very easy even for a novice to learn.
That'd be more than enough good weld for 1/8 steel.
Or..if you know a few rodders around your area they'll usualy weld something like that up cheap for you or even for free to help out a fellow rodder,if you was close to me,i'd come over and weld it up for ya just for a few beers and some bull--- time.
A little tip for folks thinkin of buyin those lincoln buzz boxes,they have one that is only AC current,and another for just a few bucks more with AC/DC,get the AC/DC,AC current requires an AC rod to get a propper weld with it,even though people use any rod on AC,which in my opinion and most welders would agree is junk welds.
DC rods are easy to get everywhere and a much better weld,6011,6013,7018,..etc.
Only time i ever use AC is TIG welding aluminum with helium.

 

Appreciate the input. Been checking out the local welding supplier's to the point they are probably getting tired of my browsing. Past couple months have it set up for ebay notifications but nothing to speak of as yet. Couple online supplier's who offer free shipping that look promissing. There is a local welding supplier who reconditions them, but they are sold before the dust settles. Considered the Miller Dual mig 115/220 setup but not sure ready to put that much into welding unit at this time. With regards to 115 volt units, appears cheapest is about $400 and can add an additional $200 for same package as one goes up the quality food chain. Goes with out saying, pay for what you get. Probably go with the suggestion of an inexpensive setup for now and upgrade at later date.

dave

 

Ive never bought weld machines from a welding supplier..wayyyy too much of a markup,i bought my lincoln 115 volt 135 plus MIG/Fluxcore at Lowes a few years ago for a little over 400.00 with everything needed for fluxcore or solid wire(MIG) minus the gas bottle.
Before that i had a cheapy Cambell Hausfeld fluxcore i got from wally world i needed fast for a little project here at home and didnt feel like sneeking it in and out of jobsites,i have to say that thing worked good for the price,back then payed 175.00 for it,think they now go for a little over 200.00,i gave it to my brother and he's still using it alot and running fine.
Just stay away from those harbor freight cheapy's they advertise as chicago tools and such,thats just a name on the cheapest welders made out there made in tawain and china,once they break down..throw em away..no parts available for them,IF you do find parts for them?.they cost more than the machine itself.
Hobart,Clarke and a few others are good brand names and alot cheaper than the Millers and Lincolns,ESAB has become pretty good but the prices are gettin way up there on them now too.
Keep your eye out at local home and bussiness auctions goin out of bussiness too,especialy car and body shops.
I have seen quite a few good Millers and Lincolns go for amazing prices slightly used,but they get you on shipping alot also,just recently seen a brand new Lincoln 175 Mig/fluxcore 220 volt go for a little under 400.00 with shipping 50.00,wish i would of bid on that,Lincoln has a newer model of the 175 now,so alot of dealers are clearin em out now.

 

Would not go with harbor when it comes to electrical motors, still have the buffer I am considering using as an anchor. If go with cheap setup, Clark is about as cheap I have found and there is a distributor within 50 mi., Not familiar with the brand and getting replacement parts would be an issue. See they do have a great warranty, but not much help if have to send off to 'Rumgully' to get repaired. Anyhow, looks like Hobart may be an alternative, intend to continue looking for the used unit in decent condition and purchase a setup by first week of next month.

dave

 

If you go with the Lincoln clicker GO AC/DC

 

Had opportunity to pick up a Lincoln 155, unfortunately, did not have time to do much research, the offer was not going to last long. Understand it's an early model piece of equipment but was assured it works and look like it's been well maintained. Have not had opportunity to use yet, also need to pick up a bottle.

dave

 

A bottle always goes well with a welder. What you going to have in your bottle?