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Before problems started: the truck.shifted all 4 gears fine.
Problem(s) begins: Then out of the blue(after I shut it off... even if it was for 30sec, and then turn it on ) it would go into limp mode but if I shut it off and then turn it on again, it would work fine. After about 3weeks/ 600 miles it just went straight to limp mode.
What I did:
After 3-4 weeks of that, I replaced the solenoid pack(uncooked both batteries and waited 10 min before I hooked them up) with a eBay special. After that, I had 1st,....., limp 3rd, then it'd slam like check into OD. To get second(which was limp), I'd have to manually drop it in 2 and and let off the pedal before I'd put it in D, to avoid it slamming straight into OD. It would toy with limp and OD from 35mph-45mph. Then it.just went straight to limp mode again.
What I couldnt do becausedon't know how to solve: I went to go get the codes read and the connector was missing and only one wire was leading to where the connector should've been.
What I did...again: I replaced the control module in the firewall. Then my codes cleared up. And same problem as when I put the new solenoid pack in. But no codes.
What is it still doing????: it's a go round battle between complete limp mode, limp mode and wanting to go into gear(suited to proper mph&rpm), or 1st, limp2&3, and OD.
What I tried: TC lock-up switch.,. And it worked but didn't solve my problem so I scratched that one.
I need major help with this one. These auto trans are not my thing.....
What were your original codes? At this point if it is in limp mode it has to be setting codes. You could have a bad range sensor or a bad input to the trans, or even an engine sensor problem. Was there any metal in ghe pan when you did the solenoid pack?
well if this was my truck,my #1 priority would be to repair the EEC-IV connector port so i could get the codes.
you shouldn't have any trouble finding a plug.here is where id start;
he's got a parts truck right now.send him a pm asking him for the plug your missing.
i hate to speculate.you really should do that and i mean asap.
there are a few obvious things that the E40D needs and if you know it's not getting them,then you don't need codes to help you figure the issues out.for a couple examples;
if the speedometer doesn't work or the tach doesn't.nor will the trans if either of those are inop.
there are also symptoms of a failing range sensor; for example if the trans seems to enter neutral all on it's own,followed by very rough re-engagement (and perhaps of the wrong gear when it does go back in)
when you have a failing FIPL (more commonly known as TPS) issues with converter (un)locking at the wrong times,early or late shifts,the need to help the trans shift by letting off the fuel etc.
no matter what,you need to focus on repairing the connector.
to help replace/find the missing wires.which color wire do you have at the "self test output" (over by the D on the right) and up by the drivers side hood hinge on the truck? the pink/green one or the gray/red one?
i ask (cus that could be your issue) but most importantly right now,if for example your missing the gray/red wire,you simply need to run a jumper off from the gray/red wire located at the TPS plug and it will be your new gray/red wire for your STO plug when you get a replacement.
if your missing the STO line - pink/green directly off the trans teca plug,that's just as easy to find.it's probably still connected to the main trans harness plug right there someplace.
see on the left in the diagram,rather than call it a TECA it just says "PCM" (powertrain control mod) all those pins and colors in the big block.well on the truck,that's the big connector plugged into the trans unit which has the 10 mm bolt holding it in place.you'll find that just down to the right of the brake master cylinder on the firewall.look around at that big group of wires for your missing pink/green wire.it "supposed" to be coming out of there.
if it's not,unplug it and look for it.if you need more help finding it,at that time post back.
you should also have the small clip hanging there at the test connector.if not.be sure to ask for this too when asking for the plug.you need the ground.
i ask (cus that could be your issue) but most importantly right now,if for example your missing the gray/red wire,you simply need to run a jumper off from the gray/red wire located at the TPS plug and it will be your new gray/red wire for your STO plug when you get a replacement.
if your missing the STO line - pink/green directly off the trans teca plug,that's just as easy to find.it's probably still connected to the main trans harness plug right there someplace.
see on the left in the diagram,rather than call it a TECA it just says "PCM" (powertrain control mod) all those pins and colors in the big block.well on the truck,that's the big connector plugged into the trans unit which has the 10 mm bolt holding it in place.you'll find that just down to the right of the brake master cylinder on the firewall.look around at that big group of wires for your missing pink/green wire.it "supposed" to be coming out of there.
if it's not,unplug it and look for it.if you need more help finding it,at that time post back.
you should also have the small clip hanging there at the test connector.if not.be sure to ask for this too when asking for the plug.you need the ground.
I did/ try the voltage on my fipl. Sensor. When hooked up to the fipl. My bottom wire (b&w) is appx. 5v. Middle wire (gry &w) is .35v from idle to 1.53-1.61v full open. Top(r&w) is gnd. Would this result in the bad fipl or am I doing.something.wrong??
well that will be causing the od light to flash.that's way off.did you try adjusting the tps to get closer to 1.2V idle to 4V WOT? if so,what happens?
looks like someone replaced the connector to it.though this is more than likely the issue at hand as described by your symptoms and the tps voltage settings,you still wont know if this is the only issue without repairing the connector for the scanner port.
did you replace the TPS yet? there's no point in screwing around with one with over 50k miles so do that.
The crappy looking connector could cause this? I got the tps today and changed it. Same voltage and when I turn the adjuster all the way up I only get .73v. I got a obd connector and found the wires for it, hooked it up, and hooked it up to a reader and still was not able to get any codes. I don't know if I was checking the ecu return wire correctly, or not. But I put the neg on the return wire and pos on the 5v wire and I got 1.2v
"when I turn the adjuster all the way up I only get .73v."
define; adjuster?
your not trying to turn the idle adjustment up to get your reading are you?
you want to set your idle screw and leave that so the engine idles at warm up to 650-700 rpm.
when taking your idle reading,loosen the screws on the tps and move that up/down the arch so that at idle,the tps voltage reads 1.2V then slightly snug up the tp bolts and using your hand push the throttle cable to wide open (leaving the idle adjustment alone) and it should read close to 4 volts ok?
it may serve you well to take the truck to a trusted local mechanic and have them look it over for you and get the scan port setup and your tps dialed in for you.it should be fairly reasonable and just take 30 mins to an hour.
