F1 steering
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Spring Lake, Mi.
F1 steering
Hi guys,
I just replaced the steering box, drag link ends, tie rod ends and kingpins on my '50 F1. I took it to a shop and verified that the toe-in was within specs. I have new wheels and new radial tires....and the darn thing goes wherever the wave in the road wants it to. I installed a dropped axle as well if that plays into anything. Can someone tell this oldtimer why the truck won't go straight down the road? Every time I cross a wave in the road it wants to wander. I understand that this style of steering setup is prone to bump steer but this thing is unsafe! I have a '27 T bucket with the same type steering and it's fine. What am I missing? Should I scrap the mess and go for an IFS?
Thanks for any advice.
Tony
(olguy)
I just replaced the steering box, drag link ends, tie rod ends and kingpins on my '50 F1. I took it to a shop and verified that the toe-in was within specs. I have new wheels and new radial tires....and the darn thing goes wherever the wave in the road wants it to. I installed a dropped axle as well if that plays into anything. Can someone tell this oldtimer why the truck won't go straight down the road? Every time I cross a wave in the road it wants to wander. I understand that this style of steering setup is prone to bump steer but this thing is unsafe! I have a '27 T bucket with the same type steering and it's fine. What am I missing? Should I scrap the mess and go for an IFS?
Thanks for any advice.
Tony
(olguy)
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From: Spring Lake, Mi.
No they didn't measure caster, but I installed wedges when I replaced the stock axle with a 4" dropped beam. I think the wedges were supposed to supply 7 degrees of caster. I installed the thick part of the wedge to the rear, which should have tipped the axle back. Was that wrong?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
That's the correct way to increase caster. Are your U-bolts tight? Have you checked that the wedges are still in the correct place?
What toe-in did they set it to? Should be just barely toed-in (1/16" or so).
What toe-in did they set it to? Should be just barely toed-in (1/16" or so).
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From: Spring Lake, Mi.
Thanks guys,
The spring hardware is all new and tight. I'm beginning to suspect the newly rebuilt box I got from Rock Auto's supplier. The box was tagged "do not adjust", and it didn't seem to have any slop on the bench, but now with the tires on the ground, I'm feeling about 3" of free play at the stock (large} steering wheel. I have to get under the truck and have the wife rock the wheel to see if the pitman arm moves.
The spring hardware is all new and tight. I'm beginning to suspect the newly rebuilt box I got from Rock Auto's supplier. The box was tagged "do not adjust", and it didn't seem to have any slop on the bench, but now with the tires on the ground, I'm feeling about 3" of free play at the stock (large} steering wheel. I have to get under the truck and have the wife rock the wheel to see if the pitman arm moves.
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Thick end of caster wedge goes toward the rear of the vehicle.
POSIES Rods and Customs ? Super Slide Springs ? Street Rod Parts ? Hot Rod Parts ? Truck Parts ? Ford and Chevy Suspensions and Chassis Parts » 1952 Ford F100 Front Dual Flex Installation Article
POSIES Rods and Customs ? Super Slide Springs ? Street Rod Parts ? Hot Rod Parts ? Truck Parts ? Ford and Chevy Suspensions and Chassis Parts » 1952 Ford F100 Front Dual Flex Installation Article
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From: Spring Lake, Mi.
Thanks again to all who responded. I found an alignment shop in the area that can do an alignment. Going in Tuesday. Young feller says toe adjustment will produce the lane-jumper problem that I have. We'll see Tues. P.M.....sure hope he's right. My thoughts about the steering box free play was shot down by a rep from Lares. He said about 2" of free play with a stock 18" wheel is about as tight as you can adjust the box....
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From: Buffalo NY
Good luck with it!
You know how when you take a turn and are ready to straighten out and you loosen the grip on the wheel and let it "slide" through your grip to go straight again? Does that happen or do you feel like you have to steer it back straight? If that's the case, I think it might not be enough positive caster. Of course it could be lots of things, but the more caster you have the more the vehicle will want to go straight without any input from you. To much and the steering can feel heavy or un responsive.
I used to do alignments when I worked at the ford store as a kid. It been a while though lol.
You know how when you take a turn and are ready to straighten out and you loosen the grip on the wheel and let it "slide" through your grip to go straight again? Does that happen or do you feel like you have to steer it back straight? If that's the case, I think it might not be enough positive caster. Of course it could be lots of things, but the more caster you have the more the vehicle will want to go straight without any input from you. To much and the steering can feel heavy or un responsive.
I used to do alignments when I worked at the ford store as a kid. It been a while though lol.
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From: Spring Lake, Mi.
F1 steering
As yet the problem is not solved...I've had the truck aligned. Results showed about 2 degrees caster per side..I installed 6 degree wedges when I installed the axle, but I have a pretty heavy rake so I guess that lessens the caster. I'm going to install wedges to try to bring it up to 4 degrees if I can find the wedges. Also, Sid suggested that it could be bump steer, and to jump on the front bumper and see if the steering wheel moves...it does indeed!
Okay so now I look at the pitman arm/drag link relationship and find it's less than 90 degrees.. have to heat and bend the spindle arm to try to bring that closer to 90 degrees. Where is the pitman arm supposed to point at straight-ahead?
I thought someone said it should be nearly vertical..the ball on mine is about
1 1/2" toward the rear of the truck. Does that matter? If this sounds like I'm baffled, it's only because I am. I'm sure there's a solution, but I can't seem to find it!!!
Thanks for all your suggestions guys,
Olguy317 (Tony)
Okay so now I look at the pitman arm/drag link relationship and find it's less than 90 degrees.. have to heat and bend the spindle arm to try to bring that closer to 90 degrees. Where is the pitman arm supposed to point at straight-ahead?
I thought someone said it should be nearly vertical..the ball on mine is about
1 1/2" toward the rear of the truck. Does that matter? If this sounds like I'm baffled, it's only because I am. I'm sure there's a solution, but I can't seem to find it!!!
Thanks for all your suggestions guys,
Olguy317 (Tony)
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