Ok so....I own a 84 f250 6.9l diesel 4x4 4 speed ran great just needed a new clutch do I took it to a shop that was recommended to me by a friend mechanic got it back and the clutch worked great but I forgot to tell them that there was a glow plug switchswitch so they cold started it a bunch of times without glow plugs and killed the batteries so I got new batteries and solenoid should be no problem but now the 30A fuse between the solenoid and the starter keeps blowing out and when I connect the batteries they arch funny like there is a big draw or a crossed wire but I took picture for reference, double and triple checked my work and and am sure that all the wires I touched are exactly how they were I don't know what could even be causing that to happen a little help on where to start HELP PLEASE!!!!!

 

First, sentences, with capitals and periods, are MUCH easier to read and understand. You're not texting your buds, you're posting to the entire world, on a forum that will be here forever. People maintaining these vehicles centuries from now will

Anyway, what "solenoid"? Do you mean the glow plug RELAY? By "fuse between the solenoid and the starter", are you referring to a fusible link between the glow plug relay and the starter relay? There should be no fuse, or fusible link, connected to the starter.

The early trucks were wired a little differently from the later ones. And often the routing was changed in service. Per the '85 EVTM, main power to the truck went from the passenger battery + to the hot terminal on the glow plug relay. (This might have actually been a big fusible link; I'll have to re-check the EVTM.) Then a wire branched from that terminal to the hot terminal on the starter relay, and from there, all the fusible links to the truck's accessories, etc. connected off that terminal.

Later trucks, the battery + wire went right to the starter relay hot terminal, and then all the fusible links to the accessories, along with the fusible link to the glow plug relay, branched from that terminal.

So why that fuse / link is blowing depends in part on which way your truck is wired. For some reason, my '85, even though the EVTM describes the first scenario above, is wired like the second scenario, like the later trucks (our '95s are wired according to the second scenario above).

If yours happens to be wired according to scenario 2, come to think of it, if that fuse / link is indeed rated for only 30A, that's waaaay under-rated. All eight GPs together draw close to 100 A.

If yours is wired like scenario 1, that means that the rest of the truck, EXCEPT for the GP relay, is dependent on one 30A fuse / link. Granted, our trucks use VERY little to keep running, but even the starter solenoid (the actual SOLENOID, meaning the one ON the STARTER) is a major draw. That still seems like an under-rating.

Oh, duh, one important question - at what point does this fuse / link blow? As soon as you connect one of the batteries? When you turn the key to RUN? When you turn the key to START? Knowing EXACTLY under what condition(s) it blows will narrow down the search for the bogey considerably.

You need a velcro-backed sign to put on the steering wheel when having the truck serviced - USE THE GLOW PLUG SWITCH - little diagram/photo. You should see when service guys try to move our '85 Batmobile around. Stooopid clutch start switch (I'm sure you're familiar with it) is so touchy, you have to have your foot just slightly off the floor to get the switch to close. Between that and the slop in the shifter, you def'ly weed out the mech's who really know how to drive from those who don't.....