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Sorry folks I know some of you were following the previous post and I tried to update you but the thread has closed. I changed the engine with a used 2011 with 25,000 miles ($4000) delivered. I still haven't tore the old one down completely. The front cover and oil pan is off and I'm just waiting to buy an engine stand because I don't working upside down from my engine lift. Been in contact with with MSD and advised them that I have the plugs where 4 of 6 had the porcelains bouncing around loose on the plugs. Still can't figure out why I never got a misfire code. In fact I only ever had a random stumble that never even left a light. I her a lot of you calling bs so I don't expect you to believe it until it happens to you. I have come across others that have had hydrolocked engines from a dirty injector that was spraying down the cylinder walls. Will try to keep you posted but I am not always on here now that race season is here so I'm getting the tear down done little by little in between all the other **** I have to do here on the weekends.
I'm just waiting to buy an engine stand because I don't working upside down from my engine lift.
I don't normally buy anything at the Chinese outlet store (Harbor a Freight) but they do sell a wide stance 4-leg stand that I own and really like. I wouldn't use it the way they suggest (2000 pounds) but it is a hell of a lot sturdier than any 1000 pound stand I've had for car engines and the price is right. I sold all my other stands after getting this one. It is really sure footed with engine hanging on it.
UPDATE- pulled one head and bottom end apart so far walls look great, valves and combustion chambers are surprisingly clean considering the soot around valve problems. haven't pulled crank yet but the con rod bearing near the rear of the block are really loose. seemed to get worse front to rear. Haven't pulled bearing caps or anything yet, just picking away a little at a time cause I'm working off the floor.