On that terminal, I only have the cable from the battery and the power to the starter. Plenty of room. You have accessories on it?

 

I have the battery, cab power, 3g alt mega fuse cable, headlight relay power plus an Accessories cable over to the optional power lug on the drivers side cowl that powers off-road lights. The starter cable for the new pmgr was enough to add the lug extension. Plus I have an amplifier cable on the battery post clamp.
I bet you have the main cab power there too. Should be a fusible link going to fusebox.

 

I got an auxiliary battery for all the accessories. I can self-jump start too.

 

I see one major thing missing from this list. The fuzzy dice to hang from the rear view mirror. LOL

Sorry I just had to add as there are a lot of great ideas here and I want to do a lot of these upgrades.

 

How did you wire it?

Series or parallel?

 

Better be in parallel, unless he's converted to a 24V system!

 

Now wouldn't that be fun

 

Parallel like bkaul states. The aux battery solenoid is switched and wired back to the auxiliary battery. Engage it and voila, it **should** start. That's the theory.

 

[QUOTE=Aaron-71;15483936]Does anyone have a half-decent link/thread for this upgrade?

I've read all over FTE and haven't come across one that didn't have loose ends and unanswered questions. Someone should really do a full 100% write-up, similar to the 3G-upgrade.

Great point though. Stopping power is greatly improved from what I recall reading (from ~250 feet to ~160 feet). Bigger brakes (T-bird/Lincoln front discs from similar era) will also help with this, but won't make as big of difference as the hydroboost will.


I haven't read all the pages yet, sorry if it is redudndant, hook up with cracker289, he did an awesome write up on the hydroboost.

 

All that I have: Just 12v from battery, power, and 12v to the starter.

Cool about the 3g: I've been wanting to do that.

 

This is a sign to install a Bus-Bar.
Jeez, man.

 

Show me a buss bar on a old ford like ours then.

 

Trying to keep a stock look maybe?

Not trying to be insulting.
(I apologize if I am.)
---
It's just,
that is one crazy wad of wiring, on one not so strong post.

A simple boneyard or marine-grade bus-bar would relieve the issue of danger & possible breakage.
Also it would simplify working on your main lead for wiring/diagnostics issues.
--
I myself only have a single 4-Gauge wire from battery to the Starter-sol. &
a 2-Gauge from sol. down to the starter. (I have the stock Big starter.)
So there no loss of connection & receives clear'n'clean shot of juice.

My starter also has two grounds installed to further insure snappy response.
& avoid the dreaded solenoid contact bounce,
that is responsible for contact weld/sticking.

I myself have done the 3G Alt. 130-Amp. convert.
But, my Alt.'s charge cable is connected to my batt. with a 175-Amp. Mega-fuse in line.
Alt. also has a 4-gauge Ground connected to battery.
They are simple feeds that keeps it easy to work with & insure great charge & voltage.

The rest of main & assy. feeds are separated to there own.
Makes under-hood work involving battery/main line things simpler.

My voltage meter when driving around is an average of 14.3V & my truck's electrical sys. couldn't be happier.
_