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23) PMGR starter. Lighter, more powerful, easier on electrical, more clearance for headers. Only $20-40 more than stock starter from DB electrical.
24) 1 piece aluminum driveshaft. Lighter and simpler.
Number 5, hydroboost, should be moved up to number one. It's the best improvement I've ever done to these vehicles, outweighing diesel swaps, disk swaps, ARB installs, axle improvements, full circle clips on U-joints and anything else I've done. The stock brakes on these, even with all new parts, are dismal and obviously were just put there to check a block somewhere and belong more in the garbage and less on a public roadway.
Does anyone have a half-decent link/thread for this upgrade?
I've read all over FTE and haven't come across one that didn't have loose ends and unanswered questions. Someone should really do a full 100% write-up, similar to the 3G-upgrade.
Great point though. Stopping power is greatly improved from what I recall reading (from ~250 feet to ~160 feet). Bigger brakes (T-bird/Lincoln front discs from similar era) will also help with this, but won't make as big of difference as the hydroboost will.
PMGR starters are a fantastic idea for other upgrades like headers (but we won't talk about that here ). One caveat is that the starter should have metallic gears, not plastic.
Does anyone have a half-decent link/thread for this upgrade?
I've read all over FTE and haven't come across one that didn't have loose ends and unanswered questions. Someone should really do a full 100% write-up, similar to the 3G-upgrade.
Great point though. Stopping power is greatly improved from what I recall reading (from ~250 feet to ~160 feet). Bigger brakes (T-bird/Lincoln front discs from similar era) will also help with this, but won't make as big of difference as the hydroboost will.
PMGR starters are a fantastic idea for other upgrades like headers (but we won't talk about that here ). One caveat is that the starter should have metallic gears, not plastic.
Never considered a 1-piece aluminum d-shaft. What's the cost on one of those?
Fair enough on PMGR starter. I had to mention since its been great for me.
On the driveshaft, cost was $654 with tax and shipping. That may sound pricey but replacement OEM shaft was around $580. Its at least half the weight and deletes the carrier bearing, middle u-joint, and slip joint. Application is 79 F250 2wd reg can long bed T18 conversion with Ford big cap.joints at pinion. 1330s all.around. I highly recommend if anyone is replacing entire shaft.
For anyone looking to do the aluminum driveshaft, it would be worth seeing if there's a local driveline shop in your area that works with aluminum to avoid the shipping charges. My driveshaft was significantly cheaper then Alex's, while also being for a 2wd long bed and still using Spicer 1330's all around, and a lot of the price difference was probably because I didn't have to pay for shipping.
For anyone looking to do the aluminum driveshaft, it would be worth seeing if there's a local driveline shop in your area that works with aluminum to avoid the shipping charges. My driveshaft was significantly cheaper then Alex's, while also being for a 2wd long bed and still using Spicer 1330's all around, and a lot of that was probably because I didn't have to pay for shipping.
Shipping was only $18. Shipped gross weight was 31lbs. But you're absolutely right. Go local. The Baton Rouge area has basically nothing for machine/driveline shops. I had to use a premium (read expensive) company in Texas. So local wasn't an option for me. But I don't regret anything: It's a top quality 5" diameter shaft.
Number 5, hydroboost,should be moved up to number one. It's the best improvement I've ever done to these vehicles, outweighing diesel swaps, disk swaps, ARB installs, axle improvements, full circle clips on U-joints and anything else I've done. The stock brakes on these, even with all new parts, are dismal and obviously were just put there to check a block somewhere and belong more in the garbage and less on a public roadway.
Number 7, electric fan, is debatable as improvement. It has great cool points, though, but the mechanical fan is more than plenty to keep things cool. There are lots of reasons to do it that aren't related to the air it moves.
I don't think the list was intended in an order of priority or "best" ... it's just a list.
For anyone looking to do the aluminum driveshaft, it would be worth seeing if there's a local driveline shop in your area that works with aluminum to avoid the shipping charges. My driveshaft was significantly cheaper then Alex's, while also being for a 2wd long bed and still using Spicer 1330's all around, and a lot of the price difference was probably because I didn't have to pay for shipping.
Not trying to hijack or nit pick. Is your shaft 4" and is that a 9" rear end? If so, that would explain the cost also.
Great info in this thread. I'm posting up even more questions.
What would be great is a thread that's as good as the "just did a 3G upgrade" thread - lists of vehicles, M/C combos, pedal ratios, rear disc conversions, Q&A etc.
Sometimes planned threads or topics don't develop as well as those which form organically.
What FTE'ers should do is to think of the How-To articles that prevail in gearhead magazines and write basically follow the same format... an intro, descriptions, pics, directions, and pitfalls.
Sometimes planned threads or topics don't develop as well as those which form organically.
What FTE'ers should do is to think of the How-To articles that prevail in gearhead magazines and write basically follow the same format... an intro, descriptions, pics, directions, and pitfalls.
Agreed. I'm just not a big fan of sifting through multiple threads for 3-4 hours to get half-answers.
As far as google tells me, this is the best thread for the "one stop shop" of information on 9" rear end disc brake conversions. BE WARNED! You'll also need to do a ton of reading on a hydroboost conversion or alternate master cylinders to make the rear discs properly work. Many individuals have had issues with installing rear discs on their Fords, only to find out that they're not doing anything! A proper 4-wheel-disc (OEM) Master Cylinder and Vacuum Booster fixes this [from what I read]).
Not trying to hijack or nit pick. Is your shaft 4" and is that a 9" rear end? If so, that would explain the cost also.
Yeah, mine's 4" - didn't catch yours was 5" at first. That would explain it.
I do have a 9" rear end, but not sure how that would affect things - a 1330 U-joint with the normal caps vs a 1330 U-joint with the big caps doesn't really change the cost.
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). One caveat is that the starter should have metallic gears, not plastic.
