I recently bought a set of front doors from the junkyard and I was wondering what the best method is for glass removal from the door. Obviously shattering is unacceptable. Power windows. Door is from a 97.

 

No one? Really? Bump

 

According to the Haynes manual...

Removal:

- remove door liner
- window all the way up
- remove screws and detach rear glass run retainer and remove from door
- remove inside and outside weather strips
- lower window to access glass bracket and rivets
- drill out rivets
- lift glass through door

Installation, beyond reverse of removal:

- lube regulator rollers, shafts and tracks with multipurpose grease

Adjustment:

- lower glass 2-3" from full top position
- loosen 3 guide assembly nut and washer assemblies
- push glass toward rear until it bottoms in door frame
- move window guide post toward rear within retention slot in door inner panel
- tighten 3 guide assembly nut and washer assemblies

Sixto
93 E150 Chateau 5.8 191K miles

 

Okay I'm in the auto glass biz and would ask first what are you trying to do or what's the reason to remove any glass?

 

The reason I want to remove the glass is the door is green and the van I have is red. I want to take the door to the acid dipping company I know for stripping and E-coat.

 

You'll need to remove everything from the door, leaving only the steel shell. It would be unwise to dip or media blast anything like a door with internal components still installed. If you already know this forgive my assuming otherwise.

The glass is riveted to the regulator assembly, those have to be removed CAREFULLY if you want to save the glass. Removing the glass before any other internal part is removed better assures the glass won't break during this process.

GENTLY remove the steel rivet stems, a small center punch and metal hammer is best. With the window down just far enough for those rivets to have clear access, typically just below the large opening in the door shell. Center the punch on the rivet stem, sharply strike the punch with the hammer but don't WHAM it, a la Bam Bam. All this might require several attempts or that stem might dislodge first smack---be persistent, don't get overly aggressive and soon enough they'll fall out.

With a 9/32" bit drill into the center of the rivet bodies, don't push inward too hard, let the bit do the work via steady pressure. As the second rivet body is removed be cautious to hold onto the glass because it will fall into the door shell.

At this point remove the regulator, also riveted to the shell---for this you don't have to be as careful---not too much to break or screw up.

Once free of the regulator lower it into the door, letting it rest there for the time being.

Now go about removing the inner and outer upper weather strips along with the lower glass run channels. The upper inner piece is friction fitted to the door shell, out piece a larger formed rubber combo channel and molding that is also friction fitted into recesses of the door shell.

Lower glass run channels are bolted to the shell somewhat low on the door, typically 3/8" or 10mm socket. With the bolts removed you'll have to pull downward in order to free them from clips on the top---an easy process most times.

After those parts are removed the glass should be easily removed by lifting it into its normal opening, being careful to not bang it around or wedge it between the now-exposed metal inside the door shell.

I hope this helps---if not lemme know!

 

Don't worry. It's OK for telling me, but yes I do know about what to do for acid dipping prep. Now, the curveball, which I don't think I made clear, sorry was that this door has no VPWR. So I guess then I need a way to lower the window to remove said rivets.

 

What's VPWR? If it has electric windows, hook up a battery - even a 12V drill battery - to the motor. Reverse the wires if the window doesn't roll down.

Sixto
93 E150 Chateau 5.8 191K miles

 

VPWR is the Ford way of saying 12 volts from the battery. VPWR = Vehicle PoWeR.