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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 08:51 PM
  #16  
F350-6's Avatar
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Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
SSBC does not sell a rebuild kit, but they will rebuild them for $50.
How often do they need to be rebuilt? Not very often I'm guessing.(hoping)

Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
Both halves of the caliper have active pistons so there is a bleeder at the top of both sides. So it is necessary to remove the wheel to bleed them.
Bleed the outer one first I guess?

Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
One trick for install I got was to true the rotor at assembly. Bolt it to the hub and spin against a dial indicator (or in my case a heavy wrench on a stool, the wrench just barely touching the rotor) to look for lateral runout. Remove the rotor and 'clock' it until runout is minimal. Easy to do if you have the patience. I forget the guys' handle, Frdmtrvt or similar. Kinda the Mark K of brakes here at FTE, ex factory brake guy.
Never heard of such a thing. Always assumed rotors were machined true and you just slap them on since they spin around all the time anyway.

Never even considered there to be a possibility that you needed to clock a rotor. Maybe that's why Just Brakes $99 brake job always ends up costing $1,300.00
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 10:48 PM
  #17  
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I hope 'never' on the rebuild, but as I intend to keep the truck it was something to plan for. When I asked it was obviously not a question they get much. Eventually I got to the right guy and yes they do rebuilds on all their products, just gotta know to ask. And send it back.

Not sure on order of bleeding, not really thinking about it. I just go back and forth til no bubbles. I'll pay attention next time. Speed Bleeders are The Way. Size 5/16 - 24 for the A193 SSBC caliper kit.

Truing the rotors was new to me too, but it makes sense that between cumulative manufacturing tolerances of the hub and rotor some runout could happen. I imagine it's like balancing the rotating mass of any engine, mandatory to get the best performance but daily driver for production purposes, not worth the effort. Seems to me the worst that could happen with out of true rotors is longer piston travel so delayed brake response. Which could be suckish if one side was different from the other. Kinda splitting hairs but it's also about craftsmanship and what you want out of the truck.

LOL on the $1300 brake job... like that check your CEL light free offer at the tire store.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 01:58 AM
  #18  
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The order for bleeding probably doesn't matter but I use a Y with a cheap brake bleeder to do mine at the same time.

I think I did my install around 2007 and still haven't had to rebuild but your mileage may vary especially if your someplace that salts the roads.

Rotors are extra. From memory, SSBC's rotors were drilled so I ended up with Powerslot cryo's.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 03:28 PM
  #19  
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Installed mine a couple weeks ago. I was expecting drastic results like being thrown through the front windshield lol. In reality I got smoother, quicker braking and no more annoying pulsating pedal. Overall I'm pleased.


 
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 07:24 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by F0rdc0wb0y
Installed mine a couple weeks ago. I was expecting drastic results like being thrown through the front windshield lol. In reality I got smoother, quicker braking and no more annoying pulsating pedal. Overall I'm pleased.

Holy cow them things are huge. I knew they were bigger, but wow.

Glad they're made of aluminum.
 
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