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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

6.0 Debacle

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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 12:01 PM
  #16  
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joseh
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From: Brazoria
Thanks again for the input/advice. Regarding the degas cap/EGR gasket. Does it matter whether it is OEM or aftermarket?
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 01:02 PM
  #17  
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Don Naslund
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From: Whittier
Yes, the oem seems to be low quality with a small spring. There may have been upgrades after 2005. but I don't know.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 01:08 PM
  #18  
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6.0 Debacle

Here is the aftermarket stant I went with

Stant 10238
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 02:54 PM
  #19  
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BryanStein
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Originally Posted by texastech_diesel
Hold up! Before we go head first off the cliff of tearing the engine in half, the only certifiable facts so far are that the wrench light was on, and there was residue around the degas cap.

The first step is gauges or a scanner, and verify the coolant and oil temp difference that set the wrench light/code. A very simple cold soak rules out sensor bias.

Parts I've mentioned so far:
Degas Coolant Bottle Cap - Riffraff Diesel Performance
Oil Cooler Kit - Riffraff Diesel Performance
STC HPOP Updated Fitting - Riffraff Diesel Performance
Amazon.com: Exhaust Gass Recirculation (EGR) Valve O-Ring Kit for Ford PowerStroke 2003-2007 6.0L F Series & Excursion, 2004-2010 6.0L E Series: Automotive
Yes, please slow down. TexasTech is giving good advice. I would wagger over half the head gasket jobs done on 6.0s have perfectly good head gaskets. Fact is, it is very very difficult to tell a head gasket failure from an EGR cooler failure on a 6.0. If you have the EGR deleted, a head gasket problem can be easy to diagnose with little cost.

As stated above

1) check proper coolant level first. If I can get more than 1/2" of fluid on my finger sticking it into my degas bottle, I've got too much in. Too much coolant WILL puke.

2) Check degas cap.

3) Pull EGR valve and check for wetness in intake manifold. If wet, you DO have a ruptured EGR cooler.

4) Get some gages (Torque Pro for less than $30, Dashboos, or Scan Gage II) to read live data. Check your delta's. If you have a ruptured EGR cooler, you very likely have a clogged Oil cooler. They both get replaced during the same work because they sit beside each other. change the STC fitting on the HPOP while in there.

5) I don't know much about a leak down test to tell if there are head gasket problems, but I'm skeptical that it will provide a clear diagnosis.

6) If you haven't pushed your truck hard, you very likely do NOT have a blown head gasket and your mechanic is either making too much money off you or being lazy and not telling you the whole story.

Good luck and there's lots of good guys on this forum that will help. I just finished an oil cooler and egr delete job on mine. Its not a big deal if you have time. Don't over torque your oil filter base bolts. I had to put 5 helicoils in mine because I striped the aluminum threads.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 03:07 PM
  #20  
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joseh
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From: Brazoria
Lot's of good info guys, I certainly appreciate it. Called my BIL, who has an 2006 just like mine. He pointed me to a diesel tech near me that supposed to be pretty good. I'm gonna give him a call and see what kind of input I can get. Maybe have him give me a second opinion other than the Ford dealer. Will keep you posted!
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 03:18 PM
  #21  
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WatsonR
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Joined: May 2014
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Jose,

Originally Posted by BryanStein
Yes, please slow down. TexasTech is giving good advice. I would wagger over half the head gasket jobs done on 6.0s have perfectly good head gaskets. Fact is, it is very very difficult to tell a head gasket failure from an EGR cooler failure on a 6.0. If you have the EGR deleted, a head gasket problem can be easy to diagnose with little cost.

As stated above

1) check proper coolant level first. If I can get more than 1/2" of fluid on my finger sticking it into my degas bottle, I've got too much in. Too much coolant WILL puke.

2) Check degas cap.

3) Pull EGR valve and check for wetness in intake manifold. If wet, you DO have a ruptured EGR cooler.

4) Get some gages (Torque Pro for less than $30, Dashboos, or Scan Gage II) to read live data. Check your delta's. If you have a ruptured EGR cooler, you very likely have a clogged Oil cooler. They both get replaced during the same work because they sit beside each other. change the STC fitting on the HPOP while in there.

5) I don't know much about a leak down test to tell if there are head gasket problems, but I'm skeptical that it will provide a clear diagnosis.

6) If you haven't pushed your truck hard, you very likely do NOT have a blown head gasket and your mechanic is either making too much money off you or being lazy and not telling you the whole story.

Good luck and there's lots of good guys on this forum that will help. I just finished an oil cooler and egr delete job on mine. Its not a big deal if you have time. Don't over torque your oil filter base bolts. I had to put 5 helicoils in mine because I striped the aluminum threads.

^^^ this post^^^ is telling you what needs done before taking it to "that guy" or he could tell you the exact same thing the dealer did... get yourself educated first so that you can make a good decision based on what "YOU" know, not what someone is telling you.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 03:47 PM
  #22  
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KDAVID1
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: TX
what they said
 
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