As I was heading to a job a couple of days ago, I noticed quite a bit of smoke coming out my tailpipe. On further review, it was actually steam, because it dissipated so fast. It was still there but at a lesser volume ten minutes down the road at the jobsite. Being under a tight schedule, I ignored it for the day, besides the truck was running great. But there it was again on the way home. I decide to go to work the next morning because it was the last day on that job and I needed to get my forms back home and then I would have more time to dig into this problem. Starting the truck to go home, I noticed a slight hesitation but the engine kicked over and everything was the same .... still steamy. Then I spent an afternoon on this site researching the symptoms. Because my truck is a 2004 6.0, there were a lot of posts to read over. It boiled down to a choice of a blown head gasket or broken EGR Cooler. I figured that I had used up all of my spare luck in getting through the two days of driving a "steaming " truck, so I didn't want to use the tests that required starting up the engine again. Luckily I found a "hill" in my garage, to park my truck for the overnight leak test.


The next morning I "struck water" in my EGR Valve hole!




So it looks like I have a leaking EGR Valve. I'd be glad to hear of any countering opinions or possibilities. My oil was diesel dirty, but free of anything like antifreeze or oil.
Since I have more time than money these days, I plan on getting into the engine and replacing the cooler, probably with a bulletproof one. My main question is, "Since I am getting into it this far, should I be considering changing out those infamous head bolts and maybe replace the gasket because I did have a couple of hesitating starts during those two days of driving a "steamer" (maybe mimi-hydro-locks? Or should I stop at the cooler because I don't use any booster chips and don't really put a lot of stress on the engine regularly?
Any and all input would be greatly appreciated.
By the way, AMAZING SITE, I was considering coming here on the cheap, but then figured that I had already benefited way more than the membership fee, just from all of the info that is available here!!!
Jim

 

You are correct you have yourself a leaking EGR cooler. I would replace the egr cooler and oil cooler, if you don't have emissions testing in your area you can delete the EGR cooler. If you do not have a problem with burping coolant out of the degas bottle, I would pass on the head gaskets. How many miles are on your truck?

 

Welcome to FTE and your rite there is a great bunch here,I'd go the cheap route if the truck is running good. First thing to do is flush the cooling system and decide what coolant you are going to stay with Ford gold or ELC 1, then order your coolant filter and oil cooler and Egr cooler or delete which ever you decide and if your really into it get the stand pipes and dummy plugs and you will be pretty much ready for a 100,000 miles

 

Welcome to the Forum

You do have a ruptured egr cooler, the bad thing is that you probably have restriction of the coolant passages of the oil cooler. This is the most common cause of the EGR cooler failure. Coolant flows from the engine thru the oil cooler then feeds the EGR cooler lack of flow from the Oil cooler causeing the coolant in the egr to flash boil and rupture the cooler.
Do not run the engine anymore there is a possibility of hydrolock which can cause massive internal engine damage.

 

I just spent quite a bit of time watching the master tech go thru all that lies ahead.
Thanks for the rapid responses guys. The truck was actually running really well up till and even after the steam started blowing out the tailpipe. I did have to replace the EGR valve four or five years ago, but the truck has been running really well, so I'll probably skip the head bolts until I have to. From what I read, this saves pulling the cab for better access.
I have 129,000 miles on the truck now. I had over 300,000 on my '89 7.3 with very few issues and I was hoping for that with the 6.0. With the help of this forum, I'm looking forward to seeing 300K + again!
Thanks for the reminder on the flush. If I get a bulletproof cooler, is the particular coolant as important as with the stock cooler? Of course after staring at an engine rebuild or worse before I had figured what was going on, spending more for coolant or whatever else it takes to keep this 6.0 happy, is going to be easier to do........ I've seen the light!!!
We do have emissions testing here in Spokane, so the bypass isn't an option.
The degas bottle is pretty clean even tho it is pretty empty right now.
I guess that I had the clues all along. I was smelling coolant occasionally, but figured that it was the heater core springing a tiny leak and that I would get to it. Well, I checked the heater and not a drop anywhere. Now I know. Maybe I can get to the point where I figure these things out ahead of massive failure. Would that be wunnerful!
Any thoughts on who makes the best EGR Cooler?

 

I would recommend a bulletproof egr cooler, factory oil cooler, a good flush and the coolant of your choice. I personally use gold in my vehicles.

 

Just wondering, do you have a late model or early model 2004 (ie where is your ICP sensor)?

 

Mark, based on the information provided, I'm going to say the OP likely has a late build 2004 (build date on or after September 29th, 2003).

 

I was ready to assume that, but thought I would confirm! Thanks Mike!

 

The door sticker says 11/03 so I guess it is a late model, but my untrained eye didn't notice the ICP location, there is a lot of equipment in a small space in that engine compartment.
By the way, I feel like I already know both Mike and Mark from going through at least 600 of the posts from that guy from Kansas City who replaced his engine and posted a LOT of pictures about his progress. bismic and m-chan68 were starring roles in that epic production!!
By the way, were there any big differences between the early and late model 2004's?

 

Yup, yours is a late 04, and yes, there are quite a few differences in them. Later engines have a bigger water pump, a little different HPO system, but same HPO pump, fuel system improvements but later than your truck, different pistons and glow plugs, ICP sensor moved to front of passenger valve cover, different intake manifold and turbo, and a few more.

 

Now that I understand that I have a late year model 2004 6.0, I went back to the tech manuals and was reading up on the changes. I see that they increased the length of the EGR Cooler slightly. When I ordered up a replacement EGR Cooler, they didn't ask me anything about when my engine was manufactured. Well now I'm sure hoping that they send out EGR Coolers that replace the newer and longer version EGR Cooler. Am I likely to be disappointed?

 

For what it's worth, I have only had the pleasure of installing two of those beefed up BPD replacement EGR coolers. Both installations resulted in the trucks' EGR systems fully functioning pretty much identically to stock. That said, I would have no issues about installing one into my own truck when the time comes. The reason They didn't ask for your build date is likely due to the fact the 2003 style round coolers pretty much NEVER fail. This could very well be the reason for the higher price for the round style cooler, since they likely never sell any.

 

I've been hitting the engine when I could and have gotten down to the bolts holding the turbo onto the turbo bracket. The bolt in the back came out. The passenger side bolt came out. But the driver's side bolt is frozen in and the head is currently stripped. I was wondering if the bolt head could be ground off, would the turbo then come out once I backed it off far enough for the threads of the frozen bolt to clear the hole?
Of course grinding the bolt head of is no walk in the park. Can the turbo be taken apart to get access to the bolt? My angle grinder can't reach the bolt with the front of the turbo in place. Maybe a grinder bit on the end of my drill would fit in there.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

I use a 10mm bolt extractor if I round off a bolt. Or, I have had some really stubborn ones that I have had to put the torch to.