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Here is a pic of my drivers door which will not close. The latch is well below to striker plate. In the picture I took a silver marker and put a line on the door body line and the matching (should) cab line. The passengers door is almost perfect and opens and closes really good.
The front edge of the drivers door looks good. I don't see anything there. Pretty even bottom to top.
Based only on what we can see in the pics, you could have a weakness or rust issue at the bottom of the door frame, where the hinge pillar meets the floor and cab mount structure. Have you looked closely at that area? Is there any fore/aft movement in the hinges at all? Trying to find a cause is the first step to fixing anything before resorting to attempting to adjust.
Based only on what we can see in the pics, you could have a weakness or rust issue at the bottom of the door frame, where the hinge pillar meets the floor and cab mount structure. Have you looked closely at that area? Is there any fore/aft movement in the hinges at all? Trying to find a cause is the first step to fixing anything before resorting to attempting to adjust.
No rust in the floor or rocker panel area. Body is in excellent shape. No wiggle in the door hinges. I looked it over pretty good before posting for help. Didn't want to risk screwing something else up.
Are the hinges tacked to the door post? They were from the factory, if not tacked the door may have been changed sometime. If everything is tight, the cab to frame mounts/rubber insulators in good shape, then the factory recommended alignment method is to spring the door.
My first step would be to replace the mount pads and dogbones if they haven't been already replaced.
Picture looks like the door gap at the front is tighter at the bottom than the top which would explain the latch side being low. I would unbolt the lower hinge and see if you can put a shim behind it to raise the rear of the door up. Closing the door with the lower hinge loose with longer bolts would show the shim thickness needed, maybe you can split the difference.
I'm betting that when that corner of the cab was damaged it has altered something on that side .
You may end up needing to jack that door opening back into shape .
All good info guys and thanks! I looked some more and it appears there is only home made flat pads between the frame and cab. I am going to order a new mount kit and put that in before I try to make any adjustments. I believe there should be some doughnuts and some flat rubber in places? I don't see any doughnuts.
Flat rubber pads at the front 4 mounting points, rocker arms at the back.
The rocker arms (dog bones) look to have been replaced. I put a jack under them and they seem tight. I don't recall seeing the rubber pads in the dog bones but they could be there. I will have to double check that.
I doubt the mounts are a problem unless the frame is bent or the cab is out of square. I had my cab on the floor and could open and close the doors no problem, the cabs are very rigid when the are not rotted out. Loosening up the 4 pad mounts will show you if there is any torquing of the cab when it is bolted down, most likely not.
I doubt the mounts are a problem unless the frame is bent or the cab is out of square. I had my cab on the floor and could open and close the doors no problem, the cabs are very rigid when the are not rotted out. Loosening up the 4 pad mounts will show you if there is any torquing of the cab when it is bolted down, most likely not.
Ok loosened all the body/frame bolts last night on the cab. Took the dog bones loose. It did not help the alignment issue. I then put a wedge between the bottom door hinge and the door. It definitely wants to bring the back of the door up more in alignment. I looked and the bottom hinge has some sort of shim material behind it already. I only managed to get one door hinge screw out with a hand impact. The kind you hold and smack with a hammer. My thumb got a good blow though. I think a real impact gun will work on them but i have to get a bigger cross point bit first.
I also took measurements from the floor to frame, frame to cab in different areas, and it is sitting really close on both sides.
I used the same impact on mine and was only able to get 3 screws out. I used my cordless impact driver and it wouldn't budge those screws. I proceeded to use my impact wrench and the screws came out.. except I broke the head off of 2 of them. so my advice..Soak the screws in PB blaster for a day or two and they shouldn't break.
I used the same impact on mine and was only able to get 3 screws out. I used my cordless impact driver and it wouldn't budge those screws. I proceeded to use my impact wrench and the screws came out.. except I broke the head off of 2 of them. so my advice..Soak the screws in PB blaster for a day or two and they shouldn't break.
Good advice Johnny. I will start with my 1/4 impact and then go to the 3/8 and then quit for a while and let the soak. lol Then on to the 1/2 and 3/4 inch.
Biscuits are only on the 53 -56 cab mounts. 48-52 had flat rubber pads like a section of a tire on the front two bolts (bottom of firewall and thru floor at front door post) The dog bones have rubber bushings around the two bolts. can't be seen without removing dog bone. all the 48-52s I've seen have the door hinges tack welded to the door post to hold alignment unless door has been replaced. Factory approved alignment method per shop manual would be to pry up on back edge of door with a 2x4 or put a block in lower hinge and spring hinge until aligned. Yes that is the way Ford did it.
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