Hub replacement
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I was confused with Pikachu's post and neglected to follow up to his response 
This whole time I was under the impression that it was the wheel studs in question, duh
Well that makes it tough to measure the studs while everything is still together
Looks like I'll have to chance it with the build date to order the hubs, don't want to leave it disassembled at the mechanic's for 2-3 weeks while I wait for the correct hub studs.
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The idea is to order all the parts stateside, wait for delivery (~2 weeks) and then tear into the truck to minimize down time.
So, based on my 10/02 build date, should I go fine or coarse
More Turbo
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I was looking at the Timken SP580205 (fine thread);
More Information for TIMKEN SP580205
and 515020 (coarse thread);
More Information for TIMKEN 515020
Looks like they come with studs in M14x1.5 and M14x2, respectively.
More Information for TIMKEN SP580205
and 515020 (coarse thread);
More Information for TIMKEN 515020
Looks like they come with studs in M14x1.5 and M14x2, respectively.
You could also try looking up the specs for a different hub manufacturer and see if they concur that all the hub mounting bolts are the same size and the wheel stud thread pitch differs....
Another option is to see if there is even an option to order the hub mounting bolts in different sizes....
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This appears to be the more secure route. Having the truck down awaiting 8 "hub mounting bolts" will either stop the work on the farm or cost me in paying 4X4 transport.
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Brett Foote
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The whole coarse vs fine thread DOES in fact apply to the WHEEL STUDS/LUG NUTS, not the 4 mounting studs for the hub to knuckle.
The pics you posted look like they were coarse thread, but I could be wrong. Worst case, you can knock out the studs from your old hub and put them in the new one, or buy new lug nuts to match the new studs. Of course that would leave you with a less then desirable mix-n-match.
As for the 4 mounting studs for the hub-to-knuckle, the new hub "should" come with new studs. Otherwise its dealer only. However, be careful not to damage the NUTS, as those are definitely a dealer item, and probably special order, so don't strip them.
As far as 2 wheel ABS vs 4 wheel ABS. Just buy the 4 wheel ABS one, and cut the sensor wire if you don't need it. Oddly enough, I found that the 4 wheel ABS version was cheaper then the 2 wheel one. So, I put them on my 2whl ABS F250. They are identical except for the sensor (and a tone ring inside I'm sure).
As a bonus, it gives us 2whl ABS guys an easy way to grease the supposedly "sealed" unit nearings. (Do a search - RiffRaff even sells a grease fitting adapter that replaces the ABS sensor.)
The pics you posted look like they were coarse thread, but I could be wrong. Worst case, you can knock out the studs from your old hub and put them in the new one, or buy new lug nuts to match the new studs. Of course that would leave you with a less then desirable mix-n-match.
As for the 4 mounting studs for the hub-to-knuckle, the new hub "should" come with new studs. Otherwise its dealer only. However, be careful not to damage the NUTS, as those are definitely a dealer item, and probably special order, so don't strip them.
As far as 2 wheel ABS vs 4 wheel ABS. Just buy the 4 wheel ABS one, and cut the sensor wire if you don't need it. Oddly enough, I found that the 4 wheel ABS version was cheaper then the 2 wheel one. So, I put them on my 2whl ABS F250. They are identical except for the sensor (and a tone ring inside I'm sure).
As a bonus, it gives us 2whl ABS guys an easy way to grease the supposedly "sealed" unit nearings. (Do a search - RiffRaff even sells a grease fitting adapter that replaces the ABS sensor.)
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did it to me again 
Looks like I need to knock out the old studs and reuse
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