When I turn the key I get nothing. Ruled out the starter solenoid and am now working on the starter switch. How do I remove this? Pictures or diagram would be helpful.


Is there anything else in-line with the s on the starter solenoid where I wouldn't get the 12V?


Thanks

 

I finally got the switch out and it checks out fine. Did a continuity check between the starter solenoid connection and the switch connection and it is open. Now the real fun starts with trying to find where it opened.


Any ideas?

 

How did you rule out the soleniod ? Did you try to jump it out and what did it do. Check you ground wires very good. Put you meter on pos battery. Then touch the frame. Engine and alternator. Check everything.

 

Ouch, bad luck with the open wire...

Have you wiggled the wires around to maybe get a connection and hopefully narrow down the break?

Otherwise, your going to have to unravel the wire harness from either the starter relay/solenoid or ignition switch to locate the break. And or all of it to replace the wire.

If your going to splice in a new section, I like using those heatshrink solder tubes. small blob of solder melts when you put a flame to it and seals the wires up nice. Or crimp on some butt connectors, solder, and heat shrink and silicon tape wrap and then hockey tape wrap the whole harness like I did :I

 

I bypassed the small lug on the solenoid and it turned over. I then checked for continuity (red/blue stripe) from the switch to the the solenoid and it is open.

I started digging in last night and found the red/green stripe wire coming from the switch has been getting very hot and melting. I ohmed across that wire to the red/blue stripe to see if they had melted together. No luck. So I'll be opening up the wiring harness to find the open.

This is very weird because it had been working fine and I had not smelled any smoke. Wires don't just open up, so either the PO did something and it broke or I'm missing something.

Can you get replacement wring harness for this truck?

 

Yeah once I find out what is wrong I'll keep your idea in mind. I like the solder connectors. They work well.

 

Open circuit on the red/blue stripe from the ignition switch could be the neutral safety switch - it sits in between there...
Not a direct replacement, but there are several "upgrade" harnesses (e.g. newer blade-style fuse blocks, etc.) available, some of which (Centech, Ron Francis) have a good reputation.

I just went through my original harness and replaced damaged sections of wire and rebundled it, myself. Far cheaper, and just as effective.

 

Do you know where it sits? Under the hood or underneath the dash?

 

If you're working on a '78, it should be mounted on the side of the transmission and look something like this:



On earlier models, it was mounted on the steering column and looked like this:



Functionally, there are two things it does:

1. Only allows the starter to be engaged if the transmission is in Park or Neutral
2. Turns the reverse lights on when the transmission is in Reverse

 

Thanks bkaul!

Does anyone have the removal process? I have the C6 tranny and its on the drivers side.

 

Here's a diagram of the alignment/installation procedure:





It might just need adjusting; will the truck turn over with the transmission in N instead of P or if you jiggle the shifter around a bit?


Adjustment procedure is to get a gauge pin (i.e. a drill bit) through the hole holding everything in place in the switch while the transmission is in Neutral, then tighten the mounting bolts.


If it's bad, removal should be pretty straightforward.

 

Yep its bad. I'll pick up a new one tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help Brian.

 

No problem.

 

Ok, so I replaced the NSW which fixed the problem. Now a few months later, I have to place the tranny in Neutral or Drive for the engine to start. When in Park it pulls current and everything lights up, just that the starter doesn't turn over.

I would assume this may be an alignment issue with the NSW. What else could it be?

 

Sounds like it is out of adjustment. Loosen the 2 bolts and insert the gauge pin (drill bit) thru all three holes, then tighten the bolts back up.