Why does Ford Dealer want $158 to change a $30 fuel filter?

Second:

I see that there are two types of filters one that comes with a extra screen around the filter and one that does not... How do I know which one I have? (I hate to admit it but I have always paid to have the fuel filter replaced and figured I would just do it myself from now on)?

 

The white fabric/screen surrounding the pleated part of the filter is a water block. Both types fit the same, so it's best to get the one with the extra fabric. Yeah, it's a pretty easy way to save yourself about $120 or so.

 

Ask them what their labor rate is. My dealer's labor rate is $91/hr.

 

Oh and that 'free' multipoint inspection you get any time you have service done? That ain't actually free...

 

Some things you just don't buy at the dealer. Most folks here get them from Clay at RiffRaff Diesel or Guzzles site. The 2 layer filter has an integral water separation screen built in, the other is just straight Filter media. That's why ones more $$ than the other. The only other models are filter in the cap units...

 

Fuel filter is an EASY job...however a couple things can make it a PITA and repeat job. Ask me how I know ;-)

*Are you confident your drain valve is good? If not, opening it to drain the fuel could leave you with a surprise that it doesn't work. Then when it finally does for whatever reason, it may continue to drip/leak fuel continuously...meaning it is time to replace the drain-valve & o-rings. Not a bad job, but can turn your 15 minute fuel filter job into a couple hours AFTER the "wait for new parts" process.

*If you are not sure, you can let the truck sit for a while, and then crack the lid SLOWLY without draining the fuel & pressure down. Just surround it with towels and GO SLOW until you get some seepage, then let it sit for a few minutes to depressurize....repeat one more time.....then remove the lid and change the filter. I did mine this way first time when I learned the drain didn't work, and it didn't spew out too much fuel.

*Lube your new, beveled o-ring and make sure it is put in correctly. Then tighten the cap slowly and make sure the o-ring doesn't try to ride out of the track and get pinched...causing an annoying seepage around the lid.

DEFINITLEY not worthy of $158 unless they are buying you dinner or changing the oil at the same time?!

 

Outrageous cost for a typically quick-n-easy job .... guess they're doing their best to live up to the "Stealership" reputation.

 

You can do it and save. This is from Guzzle's site.

Welcome to guzzle's PSD Fuel Filter Change Web Page

 

In defense of the "stealership": I have been a service manager more than once in my career, and I am aware of the challenges of making a service department profitable. The expense of the labor alone is pretty tough on the budget, then you have "people issues" to contend with - like finding qualified people willing to work with frustrating and complex vehicles all day long, and frustrated and impatient drivers desperately wanting their vehicle back immediately. Throw decades of different engineering, technology, and levels of "fail" into the mix - and you'd be lucky to find a mechanic who has "the right stuff" for the right wage.

Equipment: We all face the issues related to troubleshooting hardware/software, including the expense. They need to have several generations of those to address vehicles dating way back before OBDII. Tools are another ordeal - they need to have these special Ford tools, just to get access to parts that would frustrate the shade-tree mechanic. I'm betting there are rules along the order of "Thou shalt have a subscription to our fancy tools" in order to be a certified dealership maintenance department. In our area, the shops have to be air conditioned and heated - more expense.

Now... we have the option to "help the dealership out" by paying profitable prices for labor to have a fuel filter replaced and the washer fluid filled - OR... we can grab a wrench, a filter, and a jug of washer fluid and do it ourselves. One is a little messy, the other is a little expensive - but I daresay the clean way is not more convenient. One involves walking to the driveway, the other involves setting an appointment, driving to town, and finding some form of self-entertainment while you wait in a boring box-O-victims.

If the drain valve starts to leak at home, you have options. If it happens at the stealership, you're in it now.

 

I understand what you are saying, but for me (the described shade-tree mechanic) to be able to research and learn how to replace my own drain valve with a $30 part in less than 2 hours....the trained dealership should be able to do it in 1 hour out the door. I know I could do it now in 1 hour or less. So IMO, $158 should be the ~$90 in labor, plus the filter, plus the new drain assembly with o-rings.

Do dealers quote a minimum of 1-hour I wonder....or are they able to break it down to 1/2's and 1/4's, because we all know a fuel filter change takes 15 minutes tops if there are no other issues.

 

The OEM filter is 10 microns at approximately absolute (98% efficiency, absolute per the SAE is 98.6%.) and can strip water at 96% clip but doesn't break out if that is free, emulsified water or what...

Motorcraft® Diesel Fuel Filters ? The Official Ford Parts Site

The 6.0 and 6.4 are a little finer at 4 microns due to higher injection pressures.

Depends on the shop, I know when I worked at a pair of dealerships as a valet it was a minimum 1 hour labor charge on anything other than oil changes.

 

Minimum one hour charge is fairly standard for other service groups as well, like the plumbers who just installed my gas water heater. Minimum one hour charge, and then 1/2 hour increments after the first hour... and the first hour includes a 15 minute drive time just to get to the house, so the extra 1/2 hour charge actually starts once the guys hit 46 minutes.

Side note... I could have easily done the job myself, but our local gas company offered me $350 in rebates if I allowed a certified gas fitter to do the job for me, and that rebate left me with an extra $75 to go towards the cost of the heater.

 

One hour minimum is standard in any service shop I've worked in - and that's electronics-related.

My wife's coworker has a 7.3L and he was quoted $1000 to fix a leak. Knowing I had this hobby, he consulted with me. I looked at the estimate and it had CAC boots, wire harnesses, CPS, and a couple of other stupid items that had nothing to do with leaking fluids. Apparently, the shop was going after every known flaw in the 7.3L - except the one that mattered in this case. The shop would likely get the truck in, find some "surprises", and call to break the bad news to the owner - prompting him to grab for a bigger round of Buck$Zooka ammo.

The leak was the standard fuel-drain leak, and it needed all the seals replaced. Seal kit, fuel filter, filter cap (non-OEM filter with built-in cap was on the truck), and a couple of Saturday hours later - his total cost was under $100.

Oh... and the UVCH, CAC, and CPS checked out just fine - as well as the ICP, IPR, EBP, MAP, and the rest of the freaking alphabet.

 

Good points thanks... I will give it a try... Not trying to demonize the dealerships when on the road with problems they are the first ones I turn too. That said when my water pump went out in Idaho I called the Dealer and asked for a estimate... They said $550... I called napa and priced a water pump which was half that. So, I thought seems fair. I drove the 100 miles to the dealership and four hours later it was done and I was presented with a $975 bill! I was shocked. The added to the bill a serpentine belt 2X the cost of one at Napa. I just replaced the belt two months prior, but I guess stuff happens. They also included a thermostat 3X the value of one I could get a Napa. Also several gallons of Coolant at $20 a gallon....And finally $17 for shop towels..

But what you gonna do, youre on the road and they get you back on the road....But they should have been more up front about the cost.

I will be muchmore wizer in the future..

 

See that's BS...none of that should have been replaced without your consent. I would have denied those and said just replace the water pump as quoted.