I looked in the tech folder and in the search by "front clip" but with surprisingly no success. I'm sure that someone else has already done so I was hoping for a few pointers. I am hopefully getting a used engine from someone on Craigslist, supposedly only 65k for $500, $600 delivered. I'm going to pop the intake manifold off to take a look at the inside.

 

If you're pulling the engine the only parts needing removed would be those directly in front of the engine, bumper removal optional, hood can remain in place.

Front parts would include the radiator support and everything in front of it too, fenders can remain in place.

The trick to pulling the engine in an E-Series is getting the hoist inside the engine compartment and configured to lift the block high enough for the oil pan to clear the front cross member. Removing the transmission first is highly advisable.

If you're looking for other posts about this try engine swap or engine pulling for search terms.

HTH

 

hey mos68,
Having done this engine swapping chore 3 times in the same van, (one time totally by myself), I can give you a few pointers. The front end and engine compartment items that need to be removed are less than you might think; the complete headlight front grill assembly, the radiator and it's top mounting frame crosspiece, the fan shroud, the fan, and all the rest of the obvious stuff to be disconnected like alternator, power steering pump, A/C, air intake ducts, emissions pumps and other equipment, and a few wiring harness sockets and plugs. You will need to prop the hood open as high as possible with a broom handle or long stick.
Removing the bumper gives you a very slight bit more of clearance and less obstructions, and on this engine job, clearance is the name of the game. If you're using a cherry picker engine hoist, which is the only method that I know of that will work properly, you will want to get the top of the engine as close as possible to the cherry picker hook assembly with the hoist chain. The carburetor or fuel injection needs to come off to add further to your clearance which is in short supply on this job. Depending on the surface where you're doing the engine pull, I wound up being unable to move the cherry picker at all and had to literally roll the van backwards and forwards to get everything in and out and aligned. The cherry picker angle is also a major factor on this job because the top of the engine compartment and firewall will add to complications. On my third engine install, I decided to put the engine and transmission in together as a unit. It was a little more challenging, but it is do-able. I have complete sequence pictures of this last engine swap which I would be glad to send you because for me visual assistance helps immensely when you can read and see the procedure at the same time. Good luck on this job. I would say that at least one other helper would be good.

 

All I have is one helper...and maybe his wife lol

Those pics and narration would be of great help if you don't mind! I'd consider pulling the trans too if it's not too difficult. As for my tools and location...I've got my full set of tools here except any specialty tools and a blacktop work surface and we'll be using a skid loader to do the heavy lifting.

 

with a smallblock, the job is easier than it looks. don't pull the trans unless there is a problem with it, TC nuts are easy to remove.


if you want to make it even easier............. remove your engine mounts from the block. then put them back in after your engine/trans are bolted back together.


back when I was an apprentice, we used to do headgaskets on the early 7.3s 88-91 Eseries with not many parts removed.

 

Gonna pull the trans for a couple reasons, need to do a deep clean on it so I can see any leaks early, I've got a few parts to put on it, and also doing a fluid and filter change. Then I'll put it back in while i wait for the motor to be finished.