Tips on pulling an engine
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 45
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From: Grover Beach USA
Tips on pulling an engine
Need to pull the engine on my 1952 F-1. I have removed all front body parts (hood, fenders, radiator etc.). I have a cherry picker and an engine stand standing by. I need to know where to attach the cherry picker to the engine. I am assuming head bolts. Just pick two, one in front and one in back? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
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From: Waynesville, OH
Tips on pulling an engine
We ran a stout nylon rope under the intake manifold with a double wrap at the front right and rear left manifold arm. That kept the rope from slipping. A double wrap around the engine hoist hook allowed us to get the balance just right. The manifold has enough holding it to the engine so you won't break anything. This was on a 272 Y-block BTW. 
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
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From: Saskatoon SK Canada
Tips on pulling an engine
When I lifted my 51 flathead v-8 I made some L brackets with a hole at the bottom and top. Bolted them to the heads. Ran a chain between them and bolted it. Got the tractor tied chain to the bucket and chain. Lifted it right up. The brackets will bend a little. Lifted complete engine with transmission.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
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From: Waynesville, OH
Tips on pulling an engine
Oh, one obvious thing to do. Make SURE you have clear movement of the hoist before you lift and start moving that engine. It's a real pain to get the engine right over a frame member or steering column and find you can't maneuver the hoist any more to get the engine the rest of the way out. I know that seems obvious but ... well ... let's just say I know it can happen from personal experience. 
Another obvious thing that sometimes gets forgotten - shorten up the lifting harness (whatever you decide to use) as much as possible. If you don't you might find out you have enough hoist travel to get the engine within 1/4" of clearing whatever you need to clear. Very irritating. Besides, it's safer to have the hoist boom as low as possible with the engine hanging on it. Good luck!
Another obvious thing that sometimes gets forgotten - shorten up the lifting harness (whatever you decide to use) as much as possible. If you don't you might find out you have enough hoist travel to get the engine within 1/4" of clearing whatever you need to clear. Very irritating. Besides, it's safer to have the hoist boom as low as possible with the engine hanging on it. Good luck!
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Kalispell, MT
Tips on pulling an engine
George you mean the exhaust manifolds don't you?
I've lifted them with chains bolted to the head bolts, intake bolts, etc. Any combination will work. One side up front, the other side in the back.
What ever you decide to go with, hook it up and lift it a little and watch to see if it sags front or back and adjust your hookup point accordingly.
I've lifted them with chains bolted to the head bolts, intake bolts, etc. Any combination will work. One side up front, the other side in the back.
What ever you decide to go with, hook it up and lift it a little and watch to see if it sags front or back and adjust your hookup point accordingly.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
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From: Waynesville, OH
Tips on pulling an engine
Tim,
Nope, the intake manifold unless my memory is totally shot. Under the manifold and over the valley cover. Exhaust manifolds may work better but, I hate to admit this, we didn't have enough rope.
Nope, the intake manifold unless my memory is totally shot. Under the manifold and over the valley cover. Exhaust manifolds may work better but, I hate to admit this, we didn't have enough rope.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 2
From: Southern New Hampshire
Tips on pulling an engine
Well, a 52 aint got a Y Block intake so thats out.
Next question is it a 6 or 8?
Head bolts arent long enough to use with a chain, need longer ones.
I do most of my pulls using 4 intake holes; 2 front and 2 rear. Two chains and a load leveler. Makes most of the issues mentioned non issues and a one man job.
Of course Ive also used a torch and a fork lift as the primary tools.
Next question is it a 6 or 8?
Head bolts arent long enough to use with a chain, need longer ones.
I do most of my pulls using 4 intake holes; 2 front and 2 rear. Two chains and a load leveler. Makes most of the issues mentioned non issues and a one man job.
Of course Ive also used a torch and a fork lift as the primary tools.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 222
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From: Lancaster SC
Tips on pulling an engine
However you decide to attach to your engine, a load leveler, available at most auto parts stores for loan or rent cna really be helpful , especially as you try to clear the tranny.
Good luck, be careful and BTW, we found that a doctors latex exam glove works really well over the tail end of the tranny to contain tranny fluids.
No Fenders , don't ask where we got the exam gloves and no they were not used....lol
Hands
Good luck, be careful and BTW, we found that a doctors latex exam glove works really well over the tail end of the tranny to contain tranny fluids.
No Fenders , don't ask where we got the exam gloves and no they were not used....lol
Hands
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Grover Beach USA
Tips on pulling an engine
Thank you all for your responses. I talked to someone who has the same year and he says that there are four bolt holes in the engine expressly for this purpose! Again, thanks for the helpful hints.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,495
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From: Northwest Fl
Tips on pulling an engine
Get yourself a heavy wooden handle, such as a shovel handle and use as a persuader. Keep your hand clear no matter how tempting.
When anything slips, it usually slams!
When anything slips, it usually slams!
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