In the past I have been overly critical of HF tooling. I used the gantry and engine hoist so far in the project and both have served me well for a fraction of the cost of other manufacturers. Would I trust their power or hand tools? Probably not. Just throwing that out there.


One more thing. I bought a three spray gun set for painting of dubious quality. I will pay for that mistake wet sanding. If you are going to paint yourself spend the extra money on a decent gun. I found it damn near impossible to lay down a decent coat of clear.

 

Are you planning on doing any sound deadening?

 

I was thinking about it but I've shelled out more money than I care to admit at this point and I haven't even touched the engine yet.

 

In fact, you in your car for service can only be done floor. (for a start) All other parts are not so important. Of course, the back wall may also be insulated. But the floor still needs to be done.

And the price? the question is of course complex. There are different types of materials - building and professional for the automotive soundproofing If the cover is only half (the hot and noisy places - i.e., approximately 80% of the surface), then you will need about 36 sqft. Ideally, of course more. But if a limited budget then you can try to do one pack minimalnych to solve problems. You can find the material cost from $1.67 to $4.97 per 1 sq ft. I.e. the stack of material depending on the quality can cost from 60 dollars to 150 dollars. The choice is great. So you can find something according to request.))) the main thing to look for)

But I do not advise to opt out of sound deadening. If not done immediately, then it will be laziness) The same again to dismantle the cabin to get seat. But, see for yourself)

But in any case do not advise to use building materials - they are designed for the home. The house is a stable environment with a stable temperature. Machine same the active medium. The temperature is constantly changing (for example in the summer you turned on the air conditioner in winter the stove). Building material cannot cope with such extreme temperature changes - and just stops working.

 

If I had the cab stripped out, I'd being doing the firewall and the floor. And likely the roof. After that, you can get at the doors anytime.

 

OK, I have to say something here. That post by "Noico" bugs me. Its bad enough when "regular people" use such horrible grammar, sentence structure, spelling, and punctuation so as to make reading a post literally make your eyes hurt.
But for a business, it just comes across as downright shady and unprofessional. If you can't take the time to exercise quality control on what you type, and therefor your companies public image, then why should people assume that your standards would be any better for your products, or services?
There are numerous points, both in the above post and in the top link in his signature, that are blatant insults to anyone who would dare do their own soundproofing, vs hiring a professional. The second, bottom link doesn't even work.

What does this even mean? "In fact, you in your car for service can only be done floor."

If English is not your first language, and that is the claimed "reason" for the poor posting, then you should hire someone else to handle your social media/PR matters.

Bottom line: For a business, appearance/image matters. The one this guy has put forward here is not impressive, and would absolutely not get my business.

Sorry to hijack/rant, but that type of stuff just really bugs me.

 

Dear carguy3j,
Perhaps my English has caused you negative emotions. I'm sorry about that. But, I know what is insulation and how to do it. I sincerely want to help the jetdoc. And at the moment I don't care what material he will choose. If you are confused by my logo and signature (second link)... just for you I can be removed altogether.

Let us look at the issue. Insulation in this type of car desired item (all want it) jetdoc has a problem - to spend money to Refine the car or make any noise insulation.

Right?
there are several variants:
1) get a cheap building material, and install it everywhere
2) take a cheap car sound deadening material and to treat the whole surface
3) take a good sound deadening material and process one part at first, and then everything else.
4) don't do sound deadening

jetdoc can choose any material - Hushmat, Dynamat, KnuKoncept, and others. I'm not talking about noico materials. Everyone decides how much money will be spent.

If jetdoc wants to choose a certain brand - I personally first will help him to find the links where this material can be bought cheaper. This negative PR for my material. But I want to help people. I don't see anything wrong.

If you can give advice on soundproofing I'd like to hear them and will include in my encyclopedia of "DIY: how to make sound deadening" I would be very grateful.

Let's not be distracted from the topic. jetdoc has the problem. Please tell me how to be? not to make sound deadening, to make it fully cheap materials, to make only a part on the most important area?

 

Ive been away since October and I'm home for a couple of weeks. Been thinking of this quite a bit lately.


We also own a 535.....Damn, I like luxury. I've test driven a couple of 08-10 King Ranches and REALLY like those. Do I want the extra payment per month? No not really but I have refocused my attention to the creature comforts. I've decided to buy a KR interior for mine and get rid of the open air intake in favor of the S and B. I'm going stainless exhaust with a muffler. I'm looking at longevity and MPG more than HP at this point.




Sound deadening is now high on my list of priorities.

 

Jetdoc....I like your thinking.

 

I did a cab swap this summer and added sound proofing when doing it. I wish I had read Tom's articles about it before hand. He's right, now's the time to do it. My regrets are that I should have got up under the dash better than I did. And, I should have put insulation in the doors. I may end up doing that though. I used Dynamat Extreme on the doors, but should have used some insulation too. Like I said, I may do that this spring too.

 

I put this stuff in my Excursion and a couple of trucks I've built. Don't know how to compare it because I haven't used other products. It definitely made a difference!

http://store.secondskinaudio.com/damplifier-pro/

 

Well, its been awhile and ive been under the weather so the project has been on hold. Sound deadener showdown is nearby so I'm going there for my sound deadening which might be a moot point because I bought a 94 5.9 Cummins to transplant today. A complete running 100k engine for 2K. I scored 06 Lariat door panels and 2010 Tan leather back seat of CL. I'm on the hunt for some KR buckets for the front....

 

Scored a front set of 2007 KR buckets, center console, and carpet for 400 bucks from a guy in Harrisburg a couple of weeks ago. New drivers seat cushion arrived today and now up at my neighbors. ( He does boat and auto interiors). I'm going to use my original carpet because the hump is different with the ZF6, but I am going to remove the sound deadening material from the KR carpet. Its about an inch thick, wheres my 99 well there is none!


TruTrac and Flexalite fans came today as well and the conversion kit for the Cummins should be here next week.


Guy called me today from VA going to buy all my 7.3 stuff so that should just about pay for the conversion kit.

 

Nice, Well done.

 

Thanks! I'll get some pics up in the next couple of days.