I'm getting ready to pull the 352/C-O-M from my 65 f250 and was wondering how I should proceed re: which body parts to remove first/ best route, attachment points for hoist, and anything else you guys feel I should know. Thank you.

 

Hood is only thing bodywise that you might remove, it you have a floor lift I'm not sure that you have to remove the hood. It has been a while.



John

 

There are a couple of ways to do this, so basically I will share my thoughts.

COM - Removing the secondary cross member first will assist a lot in removing the transmission and bell housing attached to the engine, provided that your truck came from the factory with the COM (which is most likely). This cross member is bolted to the radius arms in automatic equipped trucks, but is riveted in manual trucks. One possibility that others can speak better to is that you may be able to remove the transmission from the bellhousing separately before pulling the engine.

Lifting - The best way to purchase a lift plate that bolts to the intake using the carburetor studs. If you use intake manifold bolts, you likely will disturb the gaskets and cause nasty leaks. FE engines are known for intake manifold leaks. (By the way, what is your purpose in pulling the engine? If it is to fix a rear main oil seal leak, please first investigate a rear intake leak - they frequently masquerade as rear main oil seal leaks.)
I also recommend against using exhaust bolts, as they have a tendency to corrode and weaken, resulting in a snapped bolt while lifting.
Using head bolts isn't practical, in my opinion.

Accelerator cable - I recommend removing this to ensure the valve cover doesn't accidentaly crush it while lifting the engine - ask me how I know this.

Body parts: Other than the secondary cross member, you do not need to remove any body parts. You may find that stripped cage nuts and corroded bolt heads will cause a lot of trouble to reassemble - depending on your purpose in engine removal. You don't need to remove the hood, at least I didn't when I changed engines years ago.

If the heat riser valve is giving you trouble, consider replacing the exhaust manifold and the exhaust on the driver's side if you end up snapping and breaking bolts.

Also consider changing the transmission cooler system out with one that has a cooler internal to the radiator, or one that is separate and that sits in front of the radiator (often used as a secondary cooler for heavy duty towing and cooling).

 

I'd recommend buying or borrowing an engine leveler to hook to your engine hoist (cherry picker). You'll find it useful for maneuvering the oil pan over the radiator support.
I'd also recommend removing the hood- don't forget to mark the location of the hinges on the underside of the hood. Removing the hood is useful for both ease of access and visibility if you are working alone.
*Don't forget to double check to make sure you've labeled, removed and fastened out of the way all lines and wires including the ground strap at the rear of the engine.
Make sure ahead of time your hoist is compatible with your engine stand- preferably a four wheeled model- those three wheelers are dangerous to use with a heavy FE block. It can tip!!!
***Try to find some help who knows what they're doing.

REMOVE THE TRANSMISSION SEPARATELY BEFORE YOU PULL THE ENGINE. Buy yourself a cheap transmission jack at Harbor Freight or somewheres- a rental unit is too big and cumbersome for your needs.


rx

 

How much work are you looking to do and how high can you lift the engine? Last time I pulled a 352 out of a slick the only body component I removed was the hood. Unbolt the tranny from the engine, unbolt everything holding the engine in, and lift away!

I have heard of people removing the grill, and radiator core support, but that depends on how rusty your hardware is.

An engine leveler made it so much easier to install the rebuilt FE.

However you decide to do it, good luck!

 

7/16 grade 8 bolts in place of the carb studs. No leveler needed as you can see the lift was level all by itself.