Need advice for engine code P0202

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Jun 3, 2015 | 09:49 PM

Rob's 04

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Need advice for engine code P0202

Yesterday driving to work felt the engine missing, on the way home got a CEL pulled the code when I got home it was P0302, so I started with the easy and put a new coil pack, same issue, so I prayed and pulled the plug (it didn't break). Put a new plug and a second new coil pack (just to be sure, and yes I keep extras dang 5.4). cleared codes and started it this time got P0202 Ford - Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 2, so I checked Ohms on #2 and it was 12.6, #1, 3, 5,6 all have 13 Ohms, didn't check #4, 7, or 8 because my big hands and the probes on my multi meter. Checked the wires on all of them and have 12 volts with key on, not running. I read another check to put blk in pin and red on pos batt terminal, and that it was supposed to go 12 to 0 off and on with engine running, All of mine went up to 14 volts and stayed no switching. Is there something I am missing to check before replacing the injector on #2? Please help.

Jun 4, 2015 | 05:33 AM

projectSHO89

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From: St Louis

What are you working on - year, model, engine?

Jun 4, 2015 | 08:08 AM

Rob's 04

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04 F-150 5.4

Jun 4, 2015 | 10:53 AM

projectSHO89

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From: St Louis

Quote:

I read another check to put blk in pin and red on pos batt terminal, and that it was supposed to go 12 to 0 off and on with engine running, All of mine went up to 14 volts and stayed no switching.

Your meter is likely too slow to see the switching. You'd need something that indicates in the digital domain and has the ability to stretch narrow pulses so you can see them, something along the lines of a logic probe or a scope.

A 12.6 ohm reading vs a 13 ohm reading isn't relevant by itself. The allowable reading is much wider range (11-18 ohms). Don't condemn the #2 injector solely on its resistance check.

Jun 5, 2015 | 07:54 PM

f31951truck

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From: Central New Jersey

Check your connector for the injector carefully the wires tend to break and cause a bad connection. I know this is a pain but if the connector checks out you could swap injectors to see if it changes.

Jun 8, 2015 | 04:06 PM

Rob's 04

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Ok I bought a noid light and the wires check out good.

Can I just lift the right side of the fuel rail to swap the injectors without having to pull the full rail?

I know to be careful for the fuel being under pressure, but will anything else be damaged?

Any other checks you guys/gals can advise?

Jun 8, 2015 | 08:46 PM

xmathewx75

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To help you out, your pull up code was a TSP under ford database. P0308.
SERVICE PROCEDURE

It may be necessary to replace the long or short block if damaged, and/or install latest level spark plugs. Refer to the following:

Isolate the engine bank causing the misfire / engine knock using diagnostic trouble codes and/or stethoscope.
De-power each cylinder individually on affected bank(s), one by one.
1. If noise disappears when any cylinder(s) are de-powered, proceed to Step 3 for those cylinders.
2. If noise does not disappear, use power balance test to isolate affected cylinders and proceed to Step 3.
Perform cylinder leak down / compression test and/or use a borescope to check isolated cylinders for damage (scuffed cylinder bore walls).
1. If engine damage is confirmed, replace the long or short block assembly under the provisions of the latest edition of the Powertrain Reference Guide. Be sure the latest level spark plugs are installed.
  <table border="0"><tbody><tr><td width="80">NOTE:</td><td>THE LATEST LEVEL PLUG WILL BE MARKED WITH (PZT 14F) ON THE PORCELAIN INSULATOR.</td></tr></tbody></table>
2. If no engine damage is found, be sure the latest level spark plugs are installed.
If the misfire / knock condition is still present further diagnostics may be required to determine other sources of misfire, such as fuel injection monitoring or coil integrity checks with Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) diagnostic equipment.