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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

bleed clutch...

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Old May 31, 2015 | 04:03 PM
  #1  
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macaroni727
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bleed clutch...

So today i put a shifter repair kit and new shifter lever(used but in better shape) on my wifes 94 ranger 4.0 . it was very sloppy before, it had one bushing in there the other had disintegrated, the pins weren't too bad but had to be replaced in order to get the new lower bushing in, anyway that was all done and buttoned up, the shifter is firmer now not sloppy, but still felt like it wasn't disengaged in first, i had read that it could be a couple of things including air in the system anyone have a quick way to bleed the clutch? i would be on my own so a one man method is preferred, thanks for reading. p.s where is the tech section on this forum i cannot seem to find it
i have no problem looking at something if there is a tech article on it, thanks.
 
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Old May 31, 2015 | 05:53 PM
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87 XLT
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You should only be able to push the clutch pedal about an inch before feeling resistance.

Read first technical info in red is the second post.

Wish I could say that my wife liked a stick shift, her car would be a lot more fun to drive.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2015 | 06:10 PM
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clutch bleed...

So i had a guy come out and bleed the slave cylinder on the 94 ranger, it seems a little better but still not disengaging especially when selecting reverse. whats the next step ? new clutch? or do we need to bleed the master? or would that have bled with the slave? he said he had a steady flow of fluid and we did it 4 or 5 times. thanks for reading
 
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Old Jun 6, 2015 | 10:38 AM
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do the master and if slave is good now should work
 
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Old Jun 6, 2015 | 11:45 AM
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Bleeding the slave, only bleeds the slave, if the master has air in it, it will need to be bench bled. It can be done on the truck, but has to be removed, and the lower end raised upward, then loosen the slave bleeder, and the master will bleed the air out.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2015 | 03:58 PM
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No the master can be bleed in the truck. Check the tech articles as I posted a way there some years ago. Requires opening the piston inside the truck cab. Pretty simple and quick. More than likely however the master has gone bad. Check for leaks under clutch pedal and on out side firewall.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2015 | 11:16 PM
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clutch bleed..

Thanks for the replies guys, i tried to contort myself under the dash, i saw the engine interlock switch, and i saw a mangled clip of some kind, didnt see any leaks, but will take a closer look, maybe eyeball one at the junkyard to give me a better idea of what i am dealing with, thanks again..
 
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Old Jun 6, 2015 | 11:23 PM
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there is a clip to hold the rod to the pedal arm. You need to disconnect the interlock, remove the clip and proceed to get to the master cyl where the rod comes out. you need to disconnect the rod from the pedal arm. Not real complicated also will need a circlip tool to get the piston out. No need to remove fully just till air is out and you can see some fluid .
 
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