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Thanks for bringing this back up. Here's the pic I took but failed to post.
This is with modded B codes and stock 265's
I'm right at 20 1/8" to top of tube opening.
That puppy set you back more than $19.00
OP, needs to get a trailer one way to his new location. I know this my not work if he's to tall BUT a tape will tell. I've run a mount as high as 22" for a heavy trailer (the squat takes up the slack). I really like your set up BUT that much metal that low in the rear does not work for my driving style.
I don't know about the wd hitches but both trailers I've owned needed a 0 rise on the stock excursion and even after I swapped on 33's that was fine. 4" with 35's will be a bit taller than me but an 8" drop seems excessive. I hate it when my ballball mount drags on stuff and I prefer to leave it on.
I though that your trailer was a pretty heavy duty deck over flatbed, if so I would imagine that also has a higher hitch than a typical car transporter or as in the OP's case U Haul pull behind.
Thanks for bringing this back up. Here's the pic I took but failed to post.
This is with modded B codes and stock 265's
I'm right at 20 1/8" to top of tube opening.
My setup might be closer to what David (the OP here) is running, I have modded B codes, F-350 tapered blocks, 2 sections of the old slapper traction bar and 35.28" tires. My ground to rear fender well lip measurement is 45.5" and the top of my receiver opening is 25 3/8" from the ground.
With Tom's hitch height, it would take an 8" drop to get a u haul trailer level.
Mine is not the most cost effective.
I actually ran the one that's 2" less drop for along time. In anticipation of my 18 HD wheels and larger tires that accompany them I sold my old one to a guy and put this one in. I leave it on all the time but I've only towed twice with it in the last couple weeks.
I don't have a picture of it or the hitch measurement of our 5'X8' utility trailer (14" wheels) but even with my adjustable ball mount (drawbar, insert, hitch, stinger, shank......) Adjustable Tri-ball Hitch | AW Direct dropped to it's lowest setting the trailer rides tongue high by a couple of inches. So yes, for a low U Haul trailer this high of a truck/receiver would need a pretty big drop to keep the trailer properly level.
I though that your trailer was a pretty heavy duty deck over flatbed, if so I would imagine that also has a higher hitch than a typical car transporter or as in the OP's case U Haul pull behind.
It was but I sold that trailer. I have a drop deck 10k trailer now that is about as low as they get. Tows way better too. I'm still adjusted up pretty low on the adjustable coupler.
I have a small utility trailer as well and I only tow iton a 2 inch drop 2 inch ball mount. It's got 12 inch wheels and is really low. My Nissan Pathfinder actually had a higher hitch than my excursion did srock. My Suzuki Vitara had a higher hitch than my excursion too.
Uhaul also gets you to buy the ground wire adapter, since their trailers don't use the frame for ground. I have two, don't ask, NOW I keep them IN my Ex so I never need to buy them again. Doh!
Uhaul also gets you to buy the ground wire adapter, since their trailers don't use the frame for ground. I have two, don't ask, NOW I keep them IN my Ex so I never need to buy them again. Doh!
Can you post a pic of this?
The trailer shouldn't depend on the frame for grounding. Their plug should have a ground pin in it (white wire).
We fix alot of their wiring jobs but they do refer alot of business to me too so I don't complain too much
They are so hokey up here I'm curious to what you guys have to deal with...
I have 2 of these adaptors. The trailers I've rented didn't have the standard 4-pin connector. Instead, they had push-in type connectors which mated with a Uhaul adaptor which then plugged in to the 4-pin on the tow vehicle.
A different adaptor would be used if the tow vehicle didn't have the 4-pin connector. This would have 3M Insulation displacement (IDC) connectors to tap on to the wires in the trunk - or behind the bumper/taillights to get to the brake/tail/turn signal wires without having to buy the adaptor which costs "more" than folks using their Honda Civic to tow the stuff to their new apartment want to pay.
How convenient.
That's like the Lance campers. They come stock with a plug that is not industry standard nor is the mate (truck side) available unless you go thru a dealer of their campers.
I've seen that setup, I assumed it was a hard wired four flat on the trailer with an additional ground wire just for the heck of it.
I have 2 of these adaptors. The trailers I've rented didn't have the standard 4-pin connector. Instead, they had push-in type connectors which mated with a Uhaul adaptor which then plugged in to the 4-pin on the tow vehicle.
A different adaptor would be used if the tow vehicle didn't have the 4-pin connector. This would have 3M Insulation displacement (IDC) connectors to tap on to the wires in the trunk - or behind the bumper/taillights to get to the brake/tail/turn signal wires without having to buy the adaptor which costs "more" than folks using their Honda Civic to tow the stuff to their new apartment want to pay.
Ive towed lots of haul trailers. Never had to buy extra wiring. They hook it up using the subharness.
Had them hook it up and neglect to tighten the ball once. Loading the car was an interesting way to discover that little boo boo. Also had them supply a subharness with a bare wire that shorted out my taillights. That was the same trip. Other than that it's been fine.