I've got one very similar to this one. I can say that with this type of adjustable hitch, you get a 2nd 'wiggle' point (the first being the receiver to the ball mount at the truck, then the 2nd being the adjustable ball mount itself).

I bought a rattle stop device (Roadmaster Quiet Hitch for 2" Trailer Hitches Roadmaster Hitch Accessories RM-061) and put it on at the truck receiver. Works great.

 

Our 1985 Class C Itasca came with a rattle stop device.
There is a 1/2" nut welded to the bottom of the receiver.
Tighten up the 1/2" bolt in the nut and no rattle.

 

But he's using an Excursion receiver...there is no nut welded to the receiver to tighten.

 

I think the nut was welded on by a previous owner.
I'm going to get one put on our Excursion receiver, too.

 

i use this one on my truck. she has 37's and 6 or 7" of lift. its very solid, made of all solid stock not tube stock on the receiver end. definitely heavy duty.

 

I use the B&W tow stow hitch, 7" drop w 2 & 2 5/16 ***** and Forget it!

Best hitch line out there for versatility!

 

Others have said it but not explicitly. The part you are shopping is called a ball mount. The hitch is the part on the truck that the ball mount slides into it. I use a fixed, forged buyers ball mount rated at 20k and a 32k ball. I like overkill. I keep it flipped so it's like a 0 rise. Once the 08 springs are on I might flip it back. But I doubt it. The ex hangs a little low and my trailer has an adjustable coupler.

 

It's a Reese Dual Cam set up with 1200 pound springs. I've researched the installation now that I'm having issues and realize that it's all the little small things that the installer didn't do that sort of added up. Chains and hangers installed backwards causing more of an outward draw than a upward draw. The angle of the hitch not set correctly causing the chains to be brought up to less than 4 links to get proper WD. Cam brackets not flush up against the bottom of the A frame because of the radius of the bracket compared to the A frame, easy fix with some spacers, but now I have holes from self tapping screws that have wallowed out. I have new parts on order and am staying home this weekend to get it fixed up. I guess its all stuff I should have researched before, but I did get caught up with other more important things.

My daughter is doing good, thank you for asking. We have lots of doctors appointments, but we have been getting out quite a bit in the trailer. It really makes it nice having the trailer because we have all of her equipment and kind of bring home with us on the road. Short trips though, we try to stay within a hour to a hour and a half of Seattle Childrens just in case.

 

Not quite. It all depends on who you talk to, around here they are called receiver hitch inserts, or inserts for short.

 

Also correctly called a Drawbar.
They are known as "Stingers" when talking about the same part that connects the truck to a Hensley Arrow or Pro-Pride hitch, no ball involved there, just the solid 2" square bar on both ends.

 

Industry wide, the common standard term is Ball Mount.

I also use "shank" though!

It may be a regional thing....like soda or pop or coke.....we all know soda is correct!

On the B&W you probably need the 9" drop one. I currently use the 7" with my EX with x/modded B codes with stock tires.

 

 

I don't know about the wd hitches but both trailers I've owned needed a 0 rise on the stock excursion and even after I swapped on 33's that was fine. 4" with 35's will be a bit taller than me but an 8" drop seems excessive. I hate it when my ballball mount drags on stuff and I prefer to leave it on.

 

Utility trailers and specifically Uhaul trailers ride lower to the ground than a heavier duty trailer.

Most single axle trailers need to be 17-18" to the top of the ball.

The op specifically said he is renting a u haul and has a lifted truck with tires that are roughly 4" taller than stock.

That's pretty close to a 6" taller frame mounted receiver hitch.

A straight out ball mount on the low side is technically considered a 2" drop. You measure from the top of the square portion of the ball mount to the ball mounting surface.

That ball mount is probably spot on for a stocker ex. Add 6" of height and you are at an 8" drop.

I'll measure mine and post up a pic.

On a tandem trailer they most always sit 2-3 inches higher due to a taller frame, more of an arched spring and usually 225 tires vs 205's.

Naturally drop axles, adjustable couplers, etc don't make this 100% accurate all the time.


On a different note the one the op posted probably has 8" of steel going vertically but at the bottom setting I don't think it is as low as what a traditional 8" ball mount is.


Joe

 

Since the OP does not tow, YET, he is not set up for heavy towing. He could run up to 21"-22" with out a problem in my EXperience. The U-Haul being lower is a good catch (17"-19" from the ground to the bottom of the ball mount is a good target)


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Triple Ball Trailer Hitch




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