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Hey all, I'm looking for the factory HP and torque specs for a 1973 360fe. Also how is the reliability of this engine? Any known issues? Any known advantages?
Reliability: When new, great. 1972 and later have hardened valve seats. The 360 doesn't make enough power to harm itself, so they slog on for years. When 40+ years old, who knows?
Known issues: Gas hog, oil leaks at the back of the intake manifold, cracking exhaust manifolds, OEM neoprene valve seals crumble like cheese and clog oil returns. Pistons are about .120 down the hole and no easy or cheap fix is to be found. The usual fix is to use a 390 crank and rod with 360 (1960s car 390) spec pistons. Not an easy or inexpensive engine to work on. Stock iron intakes are 80+ lbs.
Known advantages: Reliable power if in good condition and you can afford to feed it. The block will accept a nearly endless stream of OEM and aftermarket performance parts, with a practical limit of about 445 cubic inches and 450 horse....
Jared, The 360 is basically a 390 bore engine with a 352 rotating system as mentioned. On the drivers side front they have the reverse image 105 foundry mark rather than 352 on the older ones.
Build it out, add headers, RV cam and a small 4 barrel and you can have an awesome truck engine, that drinks like a sailor.
Jared, The 360 is basically a 390 bore engine with a 352 rotating system as mentioned. On the drivers side front they have the reverse image 105 foundry mark rather than 352 on the older ones.
Build it out, add headers, RV cam and a small 4 barrel and you can have an awesome truck engine, that drinks like a sailor.
John
Awesome! Thanks for the info. From what I understand these are good engines. I see a lot of people doing the the cam, 4barrel and headers so I take it makes quite the improvement.
Reliability: When new, great. 1972 and later have hardened valve seats. The 360 doesn't make enough power to harm itself, so they slog on for years. When 40+ years old, who knows?
Known issues: Gas hog, oil leaks at the back of the intake manifold, cracking exhaust manifolds, OEM neoprene valve seals crumble like cheese and clog oil returns. Pistons are about .120 down the hole and no easy or cheap fix is to be found. The usual fix is to use a 390 crank and rod with 360 (1960s car 390) spec pistons. Not an easy or inexpensive engine to work on. Stock iron intakes are 80+ lbs.
Known advantages: Reliable power if in good condition and you can afford to feed it. The block will accept a nearly endless stream of OEM and aftermarket performance parts, with a practical limit of about 445 cubic inches and 450 horse....
Thanks for the info!! I'm starting to familiarize myself with these engines (and just carbureted ones in general) as I had a efi 460 in my previous truck.
You will not see that results in a 360. It was an early attempt at emissions and is considered a dog. They have come a long way baby. A 352 or 390 will respond much better.
I was running stock before. My seat of the pants dyno can tell a huge difference. Its not a top fuel dragster and thats not what I wanted. I want to be able to put around town and occasionally pull my motorcycle trailer. I would definitely do it again. Its cool when I stop somewhere now and most times am asked "what you got in that thing, sounds good" Thanks for all the info I get from this board!!! Very helpful.
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