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windshield washer connector, no power ?

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Old May 25, 2015 | 08:08 PM
  #1  
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windshield washer connector, no power ?

It won't spray. I pulled the connector off the washer reservoir and did a ohms test, nothing.
Used a test light test, nothing. I had the truck running and pressed in on the multi fuction switch. Did I test it correctly? Does someone have a wiring diagram?
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 09:31 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
fuse #2 - 30 amp wiper/washer.
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 11:52 PM
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From: va
no fuse, circuit breaker

Thanks, I don't have a 30 amp fuse. My truck has a gray 8.25 amp circuit breaker. I ohms tested it and it's ok. There's power behind the circuit breaker.

AT FIREWALL, INSIDE CONNECTOR




Did I test the connector correctly? Does someone have a wiring diagram? Which one is the wire to the washer reservoir pump? I think it was dark green.
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mike L


Did I test the connector correctly? Does someone have a wiring diagram? Which one is the wire to the washer reservoir pump? I think it was dark green.
Here ya' go:



The answer is Black/White
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 09:24 PM
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I used a jumper at the wiper control module, between 2 and 4. The sprayer worked. Is the control module bad?
 
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Old May 27, 2015 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mike L
I used a jumper at the wiper control module, between 2 and 4. The sprayer worked. Is the control module bad?
Not necessarily...

Verify you have power at Pin 7 when you press the Washer button on the Multi-Function lever. Many times I have found poor connection at the end of the control stalk.
 
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Old May 27, 2015 | 01:55 PM
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From: va
clean the end of the control stalk first !

Originally Posted by rla2005
Not necessarily...

Verify you have power at Pin 7 when you press the Washer button on the Multi-Function lever. Many times I have found poor connection at the end of the control stalk.
Do you mean the brown/white stripe. I have no power there and at the module.
But I cleaned out the end of the control stalk (turn signal handle). Have something to catch the falling pieces. Removed the black cap with a then knife, large spring and then the white large piece. Hold on to the black piece with your left hand after you remove the screw. Then slowly slide off the piece, it has a spring in there. I used q tips to remove the dirty grease at the bottom of the hole and the white piece it has copper on it. There is a 1" long 1/8" thick spring that goes through the handle and has caps on both end. A cap will stay in the hole because of the grease. the spring will fall out when you pull off the large black piece (with the white markings). Wrap your hand around the handle and follow the cap up when remove slowly. My sprayer now works after I cleaned it.
Thanks
 
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Old May 27, 2015 | 02:37 PM
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Place an DVM between Pins 7 & 9. With the Key Off press the Washer function. The resistance should be less than 5 ohms. If it is, replace the Wiper/Washer Module. If the resistance is more than 5 ohms resolve the open circuit or replace the Multi-Function Switch assembly.
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 04:41 AM
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Thanks ! The resistance is 1.2 ohms between 7 and 9. What would happen if i didn't replace the Wiper/Washer Module. Should I have 12 volts across those two pins? Briefly what does the difference in ohms make? is lower good?
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 07:44 AM
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The Wiper Module does not work on a simple +12V or 0V input, it responds to variable voltage input for wiper functions just like the Speed Control Module. There are discrete resistance levels built into the Wiper switch as noted in the diagram above. In the case of the washer function.

For Washer operation it does look like it bypasses the resistor string in the wiper switch which would apply full signal value to the Wiper Module input. That is the reason why the manual states to use an ohm meter to check the impedance of that circuit. It should be a "short" with the Washer button pushed. If the resistance is high, like an open circuit, the user is directed to repair the circuit path. If the resistance is just over the 5 ohm range, then replace the Multi-Function Switch assembly. If the resistance value is good, replace the module.

If you choose to remove the module you will lose wiper function as well as the washer. I would not suggest to start jumpering wires in an efort to gain some wiper function or washer operation. The contacts of the wiper/washer switch are not rated to carry that kind of current to run the washer pump or wiper motor.
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 01:11 PM
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I will be replacing the module. Is my 1.2 ohms resistance value good, because it's under (3.3) ? ohms. Trying to understand wiring a little more. What would happen if someone were to leave the module in. Do you know why it's still working know. I'm not try to be a jerk. Thank you for your help I can tell you know what your talking about.
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mike L
I will be replacing the module. Is my 1.2 ohms resistance value good, because it's under (3.3) ? ohms. Trying to understand wiring a little more. What would happen if someone were to leave the module in.
No difference, everything will operate as it does now?

Originally Posted by mike L
Do you know why it's still working know. I'm not try to be a jerk.
What is working now? The Washer function? Could have been a bad connection if that is the case.

Originally Posted by mike L
Thank you for your help I can tell you know what your talking about.
No, not really.....I'm just an amateur hack with 40+ years of hands on experience working on cars, tractors, motorcycles and small gas engines. Add in 30 years of medical electronics
 
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Old May 29, 2015 | 04:19 AM
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So I have everything connected like it did from the factory. I cleaned the inside the Washer button on the Multi-Function lever. Read that it was the most common problem. Now everything works. I have 1.2 ohms between 7 and 9 pins. The diagram says 3.3 ohms so does that mean it needs to be under that? Since the sprayer and wipers work do I don't need to replace anything? Thanks again
 
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