p-2285 ICP sensor lower than spec
ICP- TXD-07e0221446 RXF-046205140646 RXD-3010 MTH-003900640000
ICPV-TXD-07e02216ad RXF-0462451606ad RXD-3010 MTH-004827100000
IPR-TXD-07e0221434 RXF-046285140634 RXD-3008 MTH-0dca03e8000a

 

I have nothing to add but you seem to be using the term "crank" in place of "start". "Crank" to most people means the starter spins the crankshaft as in "the starter cranks the motor over but the motor does not start". For me it makes it confusing what your trying to tell.

 

Ok. So after coming to the grips that I am going to need a EGR delete and oil cooler, plus possibly a new HPOP. I cant afford it all at once, so over the next few months I am going to buy whatever I need to bulletproof her, increase my mpg and performance. Take my time finding a good shop then once I have everything, Ill drop it off.

Its a third vehicle that if I am going to invest all this money in, I will make it a daily driver for the next few years.

Here is what I have compiled what I want or need.
FULL EGR delete
Oil cooler
HPOP
Wicked Wheel
ARP Headstuds
Turbo Timer
Coolant Filter
Glow plug harnesses
Dummy plugs
Standpipes
ICP
IPR
Injector O-ring set
Blue spring kit
New degas/resevoir
Of course all respective gaskets.

Am I missing anything?

 

STC updated fitting if its not an early 6.0
A good chemical flush before tearing it apart
Tuner to clear the EGR delete check engine light
upgraded turbo drain line

 

Is there a brand that is better than others? I see Sinister, Alliant, etc... Then I see many say OEM.

 

You want the IPR brand delete
OEM oil cooler and OEM gaskets for the heads
ARP studs.

Use Advance Auto coupon code TRT30 to save 30% or $50. Keep the cart to $150 and save $50, under $150, save 30% on parts. Order on-line and do in store pick-up.

Turbo timer? AND fix your signature so we can see what model and year of your truck, with mods so we don;t have to guess at what we're working with.

 

Oh wow, I didnt know I could get parts at Advanced Auto...good stuff.

The turbo timer is because I heard its good to let the truck idle a minute or two after driving.

Ill update my signature.

 

Ok. I have a question.
I drove today for about 45 mintues on the highway and my numbers got to 230 EOT and 182 ECT.
I got my exit and hit a red light, with in 5 mintues my numbers were 220 EOT and 190ECT. It even got to 215EOT and 191ECT. By the time I got to where I was going. Im curious why it would do that?

 

The oil temperature will go up depending on the oil pressure demand (fuel demand) ..... Higher speed or higher load.

Coolant temp will go down at highway speed due to the airflow through the radiator.

The relationship changes due to the operating mode your utilizing and the numbers you stated are not surprising to me.

Fords test procedure is to quickly accelerate up to a set speed when the motor is fully heated and see is the cooler is working efficiently enough to keep the oil within 15F delta. That has variables to it which can lead to an incorrect judgement. That does not take much mechanic time.

The better, more consistent condition is to operate the vehicle in a steady state mode achieving the same target speed and look at the relationship (delta). Easy for an owner, time consuming for a mechanic.

However, the workload at the time can alter either result. If the truck is empty, the tests work well. If you are checking the delta and the vehicle is carry weight or pulling a trailer, a marginally OK cooler may exceed the delta threshold because of the increased demand on the HPOP due to higher fuel demands. It's all about how much are you asking from the HPOP and how efficient is the cooler working.