depends on the type of delete installed.
1) stealth delete... welded plug inside the EGR cooler inlet, can't see it from the outside
2) Plug/cap welded/bolted into the up-pipe (just under and to the left of the turbo), ERG cooler removed, cap to the intake manifold, EGR valve in place.
3) Plug in place on the up-pipe, ERG valve removed and capped.
a hose for coolant should be in place from the oil cooler to the intake manifold.


Google images or do this;
Look to see if the cooler is gone, its round on 03/04 and square on 05 and up, just under the intake manifold on the left side just inboard of the head. Look to see if your up-pipe has a plug/cap on it. See if your EGR valve is gone or just laying there. If you have an 05 and up, EGR will need a tuner to make the check engine light stay off.

 

Thanks. Is the EGR valve cylinder looking with a connector on top next to the oil and fuel filters?

 

yes. But you really need to look for the capped up pipe and if the cooler itself is there or not.

 

Ok. Again Im sorry for the dumb questions. The valve is their and the cooler is their. I cant tell if the pipe is capped.

 

unplug the EGR sensor and if you get a check engine light, you'll know. What year is your truck?

 

Its a 2004 F450 late build with the ICP on the valve cover. I unplugged it and got a check engine light.

Can I leave it unplugged?

 

no, can you scan the code? Should be p0401 for low flow.

 

I scanned it and I get ICP error because I had a hot no start and reseated the ICP connector (i guess its bad).

 

is there oil dripping from the connection?

 

ICP? I just unplugged and replug at the connector. I didnt pull the ICP itself out.

 

No need to pull the sensor... just unplug the connector and look at it. If it's oil coated, then the pigtail/connector needs replaced.

 

EGR Delete Kit | Ford 6.0 Liter EGR Delete
I'm really surprised Cali is advertising this , If your in a city that requires Inspection then Be careful. You can also monitor EGR valve on the scan gauge if you need the PIDs let us know ,sounds like you need to answer some earlier questions on the eot /ect and eliminate some area's then Tackle the EGR and function. ( is the EGR valve plugged in)? Monitor EGR Valve to eliminate the Harness and power to it and see what it's doing, If stuck closed then explains the over heat to the cooler some what, most likely Oil cooler. Just FYI anytime you unplug a sensor you will get a code, just make sure you make a note of the number and what you disconnected then Erase the code , and start over , if the code keeps coming back then that's your problem area but not limited to one sensor or Issue as you could have Multiple.

 

OK..now I am officially confused. Thank Goodness this is a 3rd vehicle, but I knew what I was getting into, and a diesel dually is something I always wanted, and I only paid 7k for the truck.


Regarding my ECT/EOT. If the up-pipe sits behind the cooler to the left of the turbo, then it has not been capped off. The cooler is still in place and the EGR valve is in place. I drove it a bit with the EGR unplugged for about 30 minutes, and the truck ran about 5-6 degrees cooler, but I was afraid of doing harm so I plugged it back in.


Now for my hot no start, this morning I drove it to work about 25 minutes on the highway, parked it and for curious sake I remembered I can kind of troubleshoot the ICP. I went to crank it, and believe it or not, I was happy it did not crank. I unplugged the ICP, and it fired right up. Plugged the ICP back in and it DID NOT crank. Unplugged it again, and fired right up. Plugged it back in because I knew it would be about 90 minutes before I needed to drive again. It made my morning. I finished doing a job for a customer and I notice my check engine light on, and I did a scan and I got a P2285 error. I tried clearing it, but it would not clear. No biggie, it wouldn't be the first car I have with a check engine light on. I drove for about 40 minutes parked the truck, and I wanted to test my theory again, so I unplugged the ICP, and to my disappointment, no luck. It would not crank (but the code still appeared but I didn't attempt to clear it). About a hour later with the ICP plugged in, it fires up. I drive about 15 to a gas station (need my Monster fix), I tested my theory again, ICP plugged in, wont fire up, I unplugged it and cleared the code, and it fired up instantly. I drove with it unplugged for about 40 minutes and just as I am about to park it shuts off, now this time with it plugged in or unplugged. Code or no code, it does not crank. I let it sit for about a hour, and it cranks right up with ICP plugged in, but it still gives the P2285 error and wont clear when its plugged in. I had a 90 minute drive home and I was ****ting bricks, but it drove just like it always has. Parked it and I tried again, and no luck again, with it plugged in or unplugged.


Sorry for the long post, but I am really confused and I really don't trust any mechanic in Miami, so I am trying to do the most research I can.

 

With the ICP plugged it, it uses actual values given by the sensor. When unplugged it's forced to use default numbers and if the HPOP is capable of giving enough pressure to fire it, it will run.

I'd remove the IPR valve and verify the screen is clear, not pushed in or damaged. Then an air test is required to find the HPO leak. Could be stand pipe, dummy plugs, STC fitting or even a bad/failing HPOP.

What numbers are you seeing for ICP, ICPV, IPR% and IPRV at KOEO, idle if possible and 2500rpm?

 

I haven't checked voltage yet. I haven't programmed my SC2 for those. Do you have those keys?


With the ICP plugged in it shows 325ps +\- and wasn't really paying attention to the IPR. With the ICP unplugged I saw the reading say around 650psi.