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Well, you only have to read my posts to know I don't have a clue, but someone who did (can't remember which of the smart guys here helped on this one) said I needed to show an injector pulse width when cranking. So, I checked my fuses under the steering wheel and after a scientific process of wiggling each one, when I tried to start it again, it fired right up. It seems I have a fuse or two that will lose contact every now and then.
well, atleast its running!
can always be something small hiding from you. lol
i would recomend a scan gauge II.
cheap, and you can monitor just about everything you need to minus fuel pressure. i would go ahead and replace those batteries though if you think they're going to give you issues. will save your FICM.
Lot's of good Info there Guy, have we tried un plugging ICP? do all three FICM connections seem snapped in? open up the fuel cap and look at the level of fuel if filling .
I removed the fuel cap and it filled, and I can hear the pump.
Checked all of the fuses.
Charged the batteries again. Still not going. The voltage on the batteries is around 10 when cranking, 11.6 with the key on.
Still no start and ran the batteries down again.
Fed up with it,
Changed the batteries, and cranked for a while and it started. And has started 3-4 times with no issues. Will check it again tomorrow, At least it is home now, and I will have to check it over some more. we are planning a trip.
I was getting 13.5V at the battery when it was running with lights on and heater blower on high, at about 2K RPM.
Could this all have been battery related. The stickers on the side of the battery say nov 07 so I assume I replaced them back about that time.
I will have to look for a scan gauge, and what it can do that this app can not. I have to do a lot more reading on the app.
I removed the fuel cap and it filled, and I can hear the pump.
Checked all of the fuses.
Charged the batteries again. Still not going. The voltage on the batteries is around 10 when cranking, 11.6 with the key on.
Still no start and ran the batteries down again.
Fed up with it,
Changed the batteries, and cranked for a while and it started. And has started 3-4 times with no issues. Will check it again tomorrow, At least it is home now, and I will have to check it over some more. we are planning a trip.
I was getting 13.5V at the battery when it was running with lights on and heater blower on high, at about 2K RPM.
Could this all have been battery related. The stickers on the side of the battery say nov 07 so I assume I replaced them back about that time.
I will have to look for a scan gauge, and what it can do that this app can not. I have to do a lot more reading on the app.
8years old Yea it's time , even though one is new and one is old, the old Battery will drain the new one or one batt had a bad cell , get to looking at the Alternator, after glo plugs shut off you don't want 13.3 v on a full load, HVAC every light on , radio etc. Your FICM reading warm is 48 v you still need 48v cold. you may or may not be out of hot water yet on that . Hang in there need the scan gauge to make life a hell of a lot easier Oh and when you do get it started make sure to have the HVAC Off until Alternator gets back up to 13.8/14. lot less load for trying to charge the Battery's and less Zap to the FICM Brain cells
does your tach and Torque pro now read engine rpm?
I would be checking the harness and connectors.
quoting from another source..
D – RPM. The form states 100 rpm minimum, but a real-world value is above 120 rpm. Low rpm can be caused by electrical issues. If the value is 0, check the crankshaft position sensor (CKP).
G – Fuel PW. Injector pulse width defaults to 0 without a CKP signal. Range 500µS to 2mS.
H – FICMSYNC. No sync from the FICM could be caused by camshaft position sensor (CMP) or CKP faults. The value should be YES after 120 rpm is reached.
I would be wary taking it on a trip without it resolved
may want to add these to torque also. its cam and crank sync, and ficm sync. both reading 1 is what you want.
and save your money..
Torque Pro can do everything Scangauge does and it has a much better GUI.
so If it is the alternator, can I put the other batteries back in and return the new ones. I do not have money for both. And the load test said they were ok..
I do have RPM on the dash, But did not look at it when cranking it when it did finally start. I then drove it home and parked it. So I have a lot of checking to do on it starting tomorrow.
I am new to the whole Torque app. And need to find more info on using it. I will look at that also, and see if it is now reading RPM or if I was doing something wrong with the app.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...and-using.html
Check this out lot's of very good Info , take the Alternator down and get a load test , It's your call on the 8 year old Battery's if it was mine I would keep the new Batt's for a piece of mind . the alt it self wont keep the truck from starting , just the low Battery one or both will.
Thanks for the links and the help.
From this post https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lternator.html
it looks like 13.3V is normal for a oem alternator? How do I tell if the alternator is 110A or more? It has a rebuilt sticker on it, that is all I have been able to see so far.
I need to rule out the alternator. Is the only option I have to pull it and have it tested? but then that does not sound like it is always reliable.
Thanks
13.3 is the Border line low you want so the alt is slowing down , you need 13.8/14 on a full load , running around town you may see 13.6/14. , on the back or top there should be a tag saying what amp it is, when I replaced my alt a few years ago, I did have one that was bad out the box Napa replaced no Problem.
Napa Power Premium Plus#213-3169 140 amp $284 less 38.50 core . mind you this is Cali4nia sales tax too , but so far so good with the second alt I'm still seeing 13.8/14.
Check the cam and crank position sensor wiring. also check the wiring harness for chaffing. these trucks have very little trouble with the position sensors, usually a wiring fault. with the pcm not having a rpm input it will not open the injectors, hence the 0 fpw.
Thanks again for all of the help.
I took the alternator down, and found that it is ok, and only 110A. But tests good. So I plan on leaving the new batteries in it and the original alternator, and see how it does after a few trips around town
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Oh and when you do get it started make sure to have the HVAC Off until Alternator gets back up to 13.8/14. lot less load for trying to charge the Battery's and less Zap to the FICM Brain cells
, but so far so good with the second alt I'm still seeing 13.8/14. 
