I just installed the PMF RSK with 2.5" lift and u-code springs on my 1997 F250. I had a leveling kit previously that that had the front slightly higher than level but the factory hoses were long enough. With the RSK, they aren't even close to long enough. The 2.5" is more like 3.5" or 4" I'd say. So now the issue is I'm having trouble locating longer brake hoses for this truck. The passenger side works fine but the drivers side hose has a fancy block that T's off to the passenger side. The hoses I ordered do not have this T block. Has anyone else had this issue? What should I do?

 

These are the ones I used when I did my lift. I'm surprised pmf doesn't offer them.

www.sky-manufacturing.com - Ford19901997StainlessSteelExtendedFrontBrakeLines

Edit: pmf has them too.
http://www.pmfsuspension.com/Ford-SS...ines_p_80.html

 

PMF offers them but I didn't want to wait cause I needed it back on the road. PMF took forever to ship my last order so I was worried that would happen again. Is it true that 97 is the only year with that T-fitting on the drivers side brake hose? That is what was making it difficult. I ordered some hoses from O'Reilly's and they came and were wrong. I ended up finding a place about an hour from home that makes custom hoses and they were able to build me some. They are really nice quality too.

 

My '96 has the same T. I think it is a 95-97 thing.

Your first sentence describes my truck exactly.

Did you swap in the D60 at the same time?

I'll be watching to see what shocks you use and other things…

Good recovery on the brake lines though.

 

Yes I did the D60 at the same time. Also a Redhead steering box. I ended up using some basic Skyjacker 7000s because that is what the local shop had in stock. I head Bilsteins are the best on these trucks though. I might try those down the road.

The next thing on the agenda is to get the sway bar mounted up. It has significant body roll right now, so that will need to happen before too long. Otherwise I am very pleased with the swap. The ride quality is night and day different, for the better. The steering box feels no tighter than my old one, but I think that is mostly due to that body roll making it feel loose.

 

Did you install the track bar?

Yes, a sway bar is a must in my mind. I found a rear before I found a front. The rear made a big difference as I am sure only a front would have. I now have both, but may pull the rear off. I still don't have my front end link length perfect yet. Too short and it pulls the sway bar into the leaf springs and can cause the sway bar to hit the track bar bracket. Too long and they hand too low and can make sway bar too stiff.

The front bar is somewhat easy to find, the axle mounting brackets and U bolt are more difficult to find, and the frame bracket for the end links can be hard to find too.

 

i did install the track bar. It seems to be alright. I used the factory track bar with a 2.5 drop mount from PMF.

The axle I bought came with the sway bar and mounting brackets. I just need to figure out the links and then mount it up.

The steering is horrible in it. I just moved though so I don't really have time to deal with it right now. I'm thinking that because the front end is so high now, the castor angle is way off? Its a struggle just to keep it on the road. Did anybody else have this happen?

 

Castor shouldn't change unless: a. it was wrong on the donor axle before you in stalled it. b. they new rear shackles you received with your RSK are the wrong length.

Did you install a new drag link and tie rod or reuse the TTB? The TTB is a different design and not as strong as the D60 items are.

Did you get your steering adjusted so the wheels turn the same amount both directions? Do you have the toe adjusted correctly?

Can you elaborate on what "struggle to keep it on the road" means?

 

I used the drag link/tie rod from the D60 and replaced the tie rod ends.

I had an alignment right after but since I didn't do it, I don't know how correctly it was done. The numbers they gave me seem to be pretty good though.

There is a ton of steering slop. The box is a brand new Red Head, so not what I expected at all. You start to turn the wheel and it does nothing and then suddenly "goes." It is impossible to make slight steering adjustments. I drove 1000 miles and it was a nightmare. Is it possible I got a bad box? Or could it be something else?

 

With the truck running and safely in park, have someone saw the steering wheel back and forth. I'll bet you a dollar against donuts your tie rod is rolling up and down. You will dang near have a code brown moment the first time you see it.

Two things cause it:
1. The stupid design that connects the drag link to the FRONT of the tire rod. So as the drag link pushes and pulls the steering link, it also rolls it up and down. You will notice on the SD the drag link connects to the TOP of the tie rod.
2. The lift increases the angle between the drag link and tie rod, increasing the up/down force on the tire rod.

I think all D60 F trucks do this. Many claim their's does not, but I suspect they are not feeling it. Or their suspension has sagged and the drag link and tie rod are closer to parallel.

With the increased angle caused by the lift, the pitman arm has to pivot farther to make the tie rod roll. If you were to put on a drop pitman arm, because of the decreased angle of the drag link, the pitman arm does not have to rotate as far to make the tie rod roll.

I had a very scary driving experience with mine too. I put on a 3" drop pitman arm, and the feeling was much improved.

It did NOT stop the tie rod roll. But the roll happened much quicker, with a lot less steering wheel input, which gives the feeling of better control.

 

You are right. I had a friend turn the wheel back and forth and the tie rod is rolling. I did put a drop pitman arm on when I did the box. I think its a 3 inch drop if I remember correctly. Is there anything else I can do to limit this phenomenon? With this happening, the steering is worse than it was before the Red Head box. Not exactly what I wanted when I did the D60 swap and Red Head.

 

What springs did you use? I used U code with my 2.5" RSK. You may have more lift than I do.

There is someone experimenting with delrin type "washers" that would limit the amount of roll.

If you had a king pin axle, they make a "high steer" kit. This leaves the drag link on the bottom where it is at. And makes an attachment point at the top of the knuckle that the tie rod attaches to.

I think someone used to make an all new knuckle for the ball joint axle that had this attachment point cast it.

When I get some of my other ride issues figured out, I will likely use hiem joint replacement pieces that makes the tie rod and drag link connection point be at the knuckle on a shared bolt.

 

I have U-codes also and a ball joint D60. It seems that there are no simple solutions to this. I am going to loosen the adjustment sleeve and rotate one tie rod end one direction and the other end in the opposite direction to try and limit the rotating. Maybe in the future I will try to fabricate something for a crossover steering setup. I'll probably just have to deal with it for now though.