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Been doing a lot of reading on the accelerator pedals for these trucks.......man my head is swimming on this subject.
On my truck 02 Manual no tuner, there is a gap between idle to when it starts to go......... so there is no smooth transition off idle is there a way to fix this??? it would be nice to get that little jerk coming off idle smoothed out.
Your Throttle Pedal Sensor is either dirty or failing. Classic symptoms. It probably will not fail completely overnight, few do, and that leaves you time to get the replacement parts.
If you're fortunate, you have a TPS assembly which has a separate TPS sensor (somewhere around $20-$30). On the other hand, if yours is like mine, you have an integral assembly where the sensor is built into the entire pedal and mounting system which includes a new pedal, mounting bracket, and sensor all built together (more like $70-$140).
On the integral unit, the sensor is riveted together. I have not yet taken one of mine apart to see if it can be manually cleaned/repaired and then successfully put back together again. I want to try that one day, but don;t have one of those round tuit things.
First, though, you can try spraying electronics cleaner into the sensor itself and work the pedal up and down rapidly. Some have had limited success with this approach if the issue is dirty contacts and the cleaning fluid can actually get to where the contamination is. The cleaner approach never worked for me.
If you need a new one, get OEM from AutoNation in White Bear Lake... best price you'll find for OEM (generally almost half what your local dealer will offer, but it is still OEM from an actual Ford Parts Center). http://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/
There are no serviceable parts on the 2002 and later Pedal Assy's.
Although, that doesn't necessarily mean it can't be serviced. It's dependent upon how far you feel comfortable with repairing it.
The issue with Potentiometers is they wear out over time and become corroded with carbon and dirt. Often, as stated above, cleaning the unit with Contact Cleaner may get you some time out of it.
Hey guys, I had to chime in since I replaced a few of these before I figured out what was going on for me. Long story short: my exhaust brake was making my pedal arc inside and building up carbon on the contacts. The inside of the pedal looks like the controller for those old slot car race tracks that we used to play with as kids. The arcing was making my pedal fail and I had to replace two of them. I was so pissed at my situation that I pried open a pedal assembly and inspected it. What I did was clean the contacts with cotton and alcohol, then tried to put it back together and use it, but it basically doesn't go back together. I ultimately ended up wiring the exhaust brake to come on with the flip of a switch instead of when taking my foot off of the pedal. I wouldn't open one up with out a replacement on your truck. BTW, they are super easy to change out. Good luck.
Hey guys, I had to chime in since I replaced a few of these before I figured out what was going on for me. Long story short: my exhaust brake was making my pedal arc inside and building up carbon on the contacts. The inside of the pedal looks like the controller for those old slot car race tracks that we used to play with as kids. The arcing was making my pedal fail and I had to replace two of them. I was so pissed at my situation that I pried open a pedal assembly and inspected it. What I did was clean the contacts with cotton and alcohol, then tried to put it back together and use it, but it basically doesn't go back together. I ultimately ended up wiring the exhaust brake to come on with the flip of a switch instead of when taking my foot off of the pedal. I wouldn't open one up with out a replacement on your truck. BTW, they are super easy to change out. Good luck.
Good info. I still want to take one of my old ones apart so I can see for myself what it looks like inside, but your experience is helpful Nate!
I've known that I could drill out the rivets, and that it might be possible to reassemble with small bolts & nuts, but was not sure if the reassembly would actually be feasible or not for other reasons (i.e. potential presence of internal spring, etc.)... sounds like it's not. Regardless, the engineer in me wants to see the inside anyway!