When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That magic 1500-2000RPM range is where the V10 puts out all it's vibration harmonics from being a 72-degree firing engine, with a 90-degree V, and having a balance shaft.
I'd keep looking for something loose. ALSO - check that the flexplate hasn't cracked around the crank bolts, and that the torque converter is securely bolted to the flexplate.. I once worked online with someone with a motor home who had a cracked flex-plate, and it was a lot like what you're describing.
Thanks, I am used to working on manual vehicles... So I am going to assume on an auto the flexplate you are referring to is the same thing or much like the flywheel in a manual vehicle?
Sorry for the ignorance.
I will look under there and see what's happening. From what I can tell now after getting a bunch of that metal rattling out of the picture I more than likely have the dreaded manifold exhaust leak as it seems to get worse as the engine heats up which I imagine means the studs/manifolds are heating and stretching further away from the engine. After listening to a few youtube videos on exhaust leaks I am pretty sure that's the one issue I have going on.
The other pinging/detonation type noise at higher rpms could be the same thing, but just making a different sound at those RPMS.
Around 1000-1500 rpm's the sound really sounds like an exhaust leak to me. I could see around cylinders 1 and 2 some black soot by the exhaust manifolds. So I imagine those are causing some of the noise for sure and without taking the manifolds off I can't be sure if I have more leaking or not.
I know a lot of guys replace the manifolds with headers and then switch to the improved Y pipe of eBay, but I am just not sure I want to sped that kind of cash quite yet.
Thanks again for the advice. I imagine I am going to need to remove the trans to check the flexplate?
Also, if it was the flexplate wouldn't the sound happen all the time? My truck sounds great until it gets pretty warm and I have driven it for a while. Then I start to notice the flutter/ping/exhaust noise, but its only during certain rpm's and not horribly loud in the cab.
Yes, the "flexplate" is the "flywheel" that the torque converter bolts to.
With the inspection plate off, you should be able to shine a flashlight up and see the area where the flexplate bolts to the crankshaft. From the guy who had this happen on his '99 F53 chassis, it was visible that way.
On the other hand, with the exhaust leaks you're talking about, it could be the manifolds banging around ...
Keep at it, don't give up, and definitely fix the exhaust leaks. That'll wreak havoc with your O2 sensors, ruin your gas mileage, and can even kill you if you idle for a while, from carbon monoxide poisoning.
Going to clean out my shop vac tonight and hook the "blowing outlet" portion to my tail pipe tonight. I am then going to use a spray bottle with water and soap and spray down the exhaust where connections/welds are made along with my manifolds and see how many leaks I have. I will also check out the flexplate while I am at it.
So found the leak. Cylinders 1 and 2 exhaust manifold studs are broken. I really don't want to try and fix them as I have seen what guys have to go through to do that.
Seem like guys pull the headlights, fenders and wheel well covers.... Then they weld nuts to the studs and try and pull them out. Seems like a chore. Plus there is no way to tell how many more you are gonna break in the process.
I have a welder and all the tools and stuff to take them off... My issue currently is I have a torn rotator cuff and SLAP tear. I also recently had back surgery. So certain tasks I would have tackled before my injuries I don't so much care to do anymore.
Calling a few shops around town to see how much they charge to tackle the job.
Well, quote was $1100... That buys me a lot of tools or a set of headers.
Bought the Felpro gaskets today. Need to buy studs "just in case".
Any thoughts on these? Any others you would recommend?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-6-8-Liter-V10-stainless-exhaust-manifold-stud-kit-Super-Duty-/140727802057?hash=item20c407d8c9&vxp=mtr
Im going to try and convince my brother to give me a hand with my set since he has a V10 excursion and his will need to be done some time in the future and he will need my welder.
I removed the inner fender well plastic, and the shock tower on the passenger side, and I had access to everything straight on.
But anyway...
^^This^^
Did this for access on both sides for my Banks header install, used the MIG welder (110Volt) to weld a nut on one broken stud on passenger side, no luck with the welder on driver's side so drilled and used Easy-out on that broken stud. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ll-w-pics.html
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.