So, as I amass a laundry list of things to do to my pickup, I found a few more things I would like to hear others thoughts on from their experiences.

1: Stereo replacement: good brands, does it go all the way off when I shut the truck off or do I need i do some extra steps?

2: Crutchfield, how are they about things? shipping, parts etc?

3: tailgate cables: do I have to order these or should a local auto parts store carry them?

4: Bedliner: who does a good spray in? I could borrow an air compressor and do it myself with the raptor stuff but how does it hold up?

5: bedmat: what do I have to move out of the way to get it detached? I know there are 2 bolts at the top through it, but should I be able to get directly to these or?

6: Idiot lights (no seatbelt, check engine etc...): how do I test to see if these work and if they do not is it just a bulb (is there anything ford specific I need or would an auto parts store have these?) or something else?

7: gauge + idiot light clear plastic piece: its clouded around the edges, needs to be replaced, how do I get it out and replace it? is this something a part I need to make myself ( I can, but if there is a better way I would love to know).

8: How do I disassemble my dash to get to all of this? I have a haynes manual but it doesn't cover this and this stuff breaks easily and I would rather not have to replace a perfectly good dash piece.

9: seats: my front seat has a tear, (see gallery, its the grey with a carpet like center to each side) is this material still available or????

10: Fuel economy: I have been told my truck should be getting better fuel milage, as of right now I am getting 7 mpg city, 10mpg highway. doesnt matter if im towing, hauling, shifting at the recommended speeds (all as the owners manual suggests) doesn't make a difference. it recently had a full tune up (the whole nine yards, nothing left out) too. any ideas?

Thats all I have for the moment.... Thanks!
-HW

 

1) Sony, JVC, Pioneer are some big name brands, get the wiring adapter so you don't have to cut up the factory truck wiring and it'll come on and off with the key for sure.

3) Nearly every parts store keeps some of those in stock.

10) Hook a code reader up to the truck. OBD1 code readers are cheap and will keep you from throwing money at the truck for no reason. I'm sure codes will come up if your mileage is that bad.

 

My answers are marked in RED in the quote

 

Sony and alpine are good ones I use

 

6. Idiot lights
Check Check Engine by disconnecting the line green vacuum line in the rear of the engine.
Check Brake by engaging the parking brake
Check Seat Belt by turning the truck on. It should flash.
Check ABS by removing the fuse for the brake lights. Turn the truck on and fully depress the brake. The ABS light should start blinking. You may need to push it a few times.
Check SRS light (airbags) by turning the truck on. It'll stay on for about 5 seconds.
Check High Beam by turning your highbeams on.
Check 4x4 and 4x4 Low lights by engaging 4x4.
That should cover every idiot light.

7. Remove the trim from around the steering wheel. You'll have two little trim pieces, pop them out, remove the two screws. Remove the **** from the headlight lever (google that one I suck at explaining it). If you have 4x4 or dual tanks disconnect both switches from the rear. Remove the cover. Boom. There should be 6 little gold screws if I remember correctly, take them out an you're good to go.

 

I will have to run through all of those a little later today. I found a short video on **** removal, pretty simple but it could be a mess.

I have 4x4 and dual fuel tanks.

The ones I highlighted in lime are the ones I think that are out, I thought there was more. Nevertheless, what does that green vacuum line do (so I know before I pull)?

 

1) I have used Pioneer radios and speakers in all of my vehicles. They're good quality. I do not have experience with any other aftermarket brands, but there are plenty of other good options.

4) I have used a couple roll-in bedliners with very good, long lasting and durable results.. but never used a spray kit. I personally have used both Herculiner and Rhino liner roll-on kits, and certainly have no regrets. Both great products. Lots of guys will argue over whose bedliners are the best, but they're all good in their own way. Drop-in liners/mats are not cool.. the ones I've seen have trapped moisture and rusted the bed through.

7) & 8)
Removing the cluster to get to the clear face/gauges is simple. Remove the two pieces of trim to the left and right of your steering column (will be those small silver or in some cases wood trim pieces) they just pry right off with a flathead, be careful though. Remove the screws you find under the trim (they will be Torx heads). Then remove your headlights ****. to do that, pull it out and stick a screwdriver in the side to press down the little tab while pulling, and it will come right off. Pull off the big piece of the dash to make enough room to disconnect the wires from the back of the fuel tank selector switch, the big dash trim piece should be free now. You should have decent acess to the cluster at this point. If you have an auto tranny you'll have to disconnect the gear selector. I believe there are 7 Torx that hold the clear face on and 4 that hold the actual cluster in place. Depending on whether or not you're checking the bulbs you shouldn't have to take the whole cluster out just to change the face. Just be patient and try not to break anything. I've taken apart many of these clusters to swap different things but the first time was a bit tricky.

10) My 95 F150 has a 5.8L as well, full tuneup, runs/shifts accordingly.. but averages 8mpg. Couldn't tell you..

Hope this helps

 

its looking like I will eventually order in a raptor kit (unless someone gives me a reason not to, which is why I always ask for opinions first) and borrow an air compressor. My friend has had good luck with it in his truck.

I tinkered with it here just a few minutes ago. I got it off no problem. I need to pick up the plastic to replace it but now I know. I found out the source of my various rattles: many of those screws are missing! no idea why though. ( I am the second owner, my parents bought it brand new so I can safely assume it was to replace idiot lights and a couple screws rolled away)

I checked and all of my idiot lights work, the only one I didnt check was the ABS, I know it is working.

 

Good thing your truck has been in the family. Like you said, the missing Torx screws probably rolled away from whoever was in there. If you hadn't bought it from your parents that'd make me think someone was in there at one point to either harmlessly change bulbs or they changed the PSOM and made the truck read false mileage. My '95 has been in the family since new as well, and it's always a good feeling to know the true history of the truck. Great peace of mind!

Nice truck, man. I LOVE two-tones.

 

As it stands the truck only has 141,xxx miles on it. Its a mix of cruising and towing/hauling (horse trailer, dirt/manure, firewood) miles. My parents still have original price sheet somewhere too... Im not concerned about the missing screws, I lost one the other day taking off the drivers side door panel and replaced the missing screw.

 

It's a good lookin' truck!

 

I'm not 100% sure what it's for, but I broke mine and had to replace it. Truck ran fine for 2 months without it. It has something to do with the emissions system.

 

I tried cycling the key first, and it showed all of my dummy lights besides ABS, high beams and 4x4(only on when 4x4 is engaged) The high beams and ABS make no difference to me, I know when both are on. The 4x4 light works.


I suppose it just leaves 5 and 9 to be answered.