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The NA rods are plenty strong. On the 6.9's the limiting factor is head fastener strength. 7/16" can only get you so much clamping load. If you are going to turbo it, get ARP head studs and over torque them a little, (100-110 ft lbs) and keep the boost in the mid 20's or less and you will be just fine.
At some point start a thread that says "build thread" (or re-title this one by editing your first post) a post up a few pics of your truck. That will attract more attention and you will get more input. Is it the white CC in your avatar? It looks nice from what I can see of it
I do have ARP studs already. Thanks for the torque info, I didn't know about that.
I will rename my thread. I need all the help I can get.
The white truck is my daily driver. Its a 95 psd 4x4.
The 6.9 is going on an 89 rolling chassis. To be fitted with a different body later. I'm going to get all the heavy lifting done first. Then find something to put on it. Hopefully 78/79 f150 supercab. I love that body style.
Here is the thread where the head fasteners were tested. The ARP 6.9 studs can be taken to 110 ft lbs without permanent stretch. The manufacturer's rating is conservative...
It looks like you'll have about a .004" Piston-to-wall clearance, which is fine.
I would recommend a set of 4.040" Total seal middle rings for your engine. If you call them up, they have them on the shelf and are very reasonably priced for their benefit. The total seal rings I had in my .040"+ 6.9 cut the blow by down to essentially nothing after they were seated. The 6.9 is very easy to get total seals for because the bore size is so common.
As far as the oil squirters are concerned... The Bolt in type you have based your above picture are fine to re-use, I have never heard of any issues with them other than some sort of fluke. The press in type can be re-used if they aren't "wiggle-loose" simply by using red threadlocker on the bodies before installing them. I went to remove my reused press in type that I installed with red thread locker, and I couldn't even get them out.
As F834 said, the biggest weak link on the 6.9 is the head fasteners, but they have been pushed safely to nearly 700wtq on a decompressed 6.9, and over 500wtq on a full compression 6.9 with a very efficient turbo towing 20k, but that is red zone territory. As long as you aren't looking to go full tilt, the 6.9 with ARP studs at 110ft/lbs will be a very reliable, healthy setup.
It looks like you'll have about a .004" Piston-to-wall clearance, which is fine.
I would recommend a set of 4.040" Total seal middle rings for your engine. If you call them up, they have them on the shelf and are very reasonably priced for their benefit. The total seal rings I had in my .040"+ 6.9 cut the blow by down to essentially nothing after they were seated. The 6.9 is very easy to get total seals for because the bore size is so common.
As far as the oil squirters are concerned... The Bolt in type you have based your above picture are fine to re-use, I have never heard of any issues with them other than some sort of fluke. The press in type can be re-used if they aren't "wiggle-loose" simply by using red threadlocker on the bodies before installing them. I went to remove my reused press in type that I installed with red thread locker, and I couldn't even get them out.
As F834 said, the biggest weak link on the 6.9 is the head fasteners, but they have been pushed safely to nearly 700wtq on a decompressed 6.9, and over 500wtq on a full compression 6.9 with a very efficient turbo towing 20k, but that is red zone territory. As long as you aren't looking to go full tilt, the 6.9 with ARP studs at 110ft/lbs will be a very reliable, healthy setup.
Is the brand name "total seal". Or is that a type of ring? I already have the rings, wonder if they are "total seal". If that's a type, not a brand.
Basically is uses an oil rail type ring in conjunction with a machined second ring to maintain an expansion gap, but also not allow a functional gap under operation, meaning 100% ring seal.
IH diesels have a huge second ring gap, which also necessitates the CDR valve. The idea was to regulate the crankcase pressure more effectively, but it really doesn't work as engineered, and is the reason these things have so much more blow by than other diesel engines. Running a small (or no) second ring gap means you can ditch the CDR (Or not, up to you).
Even if you don't spring for total seal rings, would be good to pick up a set of middle rings that have a small enough gap to be gapped about .002" larger than the top ring. The life of the engine will be extended most absolutely.
Here is a pic of the truck that's getting rebuilt. Not the cab, just the frame, suspension, and drivetrain. Cab is going bye-bye. Oh by the way. Lots of good parts, if anybody needs them. Free, unless its got to be pulled, and its a pia for me to do. If its got to be shipped, you pay shipping of course. Some of you guys might be able to use some of the stuff. If your looking for something, ask, and i'll tell you if its still in there. Cab! and components! Not anything under it! LOL And excuse the mess in my toybox.
I recon I will post these parts in the "parts" section. I think there is one. Just giving you guys a heads up. Lots of good stuff, window glass, back seats, steering column, etc.... I do have the headlights, and stuff too.
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Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
