Hello.
Brand new to the forums and coming here on the advice of a friend, as the past several days of searching on the internet has yielded no results.

Last week I purchased a 1995 E-150 Cargo that was a fleet vehicle but had been sitting for 2 years. Van started right up and I drove it 100 miles home without incident. After sitting for an hour or so I started it to clean it up and noticed an up and down idle with fluctuating voltage on instrument cluster gauge. The idle would be fine when driving and only was rough on warm starts and only at start up.

Fast forward 2 days. After flushing the radiator, changing oil and air filter and cleaning MAF Sensor I went for a drive and the van seemed to be running much better. An hour later I came out only to have the van not start at all, it just kept cranking.

Next morning I came out and again the van started just fine. Drove down to get some gas and when I went to start it, it would start but then immediately die. If I would hold down the gas after start up it would stay running but then die as soon as I let my foot off the gas. It did this 3 times until finally it was back to a no start condition. Had to get towed home.

Came out this morning and once again van started albeit with the same rough idle. When I start it cold it runs absolutely beautifully, but that doesn't mean much if I can never shut it off. I am absolutely stumped and can't afford to take it in or just throw parts at it.

I should mention there is not check engine light and no codes.

The only thing I have found that is similar was on this forum and was diagnosed as a leaking injectors. Does anyone here have any ideas at least where to start? I am absolutely pulling my hair out and am hoping I did not just throw 1,300 bucks in the toilet. Any help is very much appreciated.

 

The first thing you need to do is to if you can is pull codes from the PMC.

You have a '95 and that would be OBD I. The parts stores will only do OBD II.

Once you get some codes, to solve the 'no start' problem just got easier.

Here's a Link for the codes.

Here is a Link for most of the sensor tests you'll also need to do.

Read the "No Start" first, about 1/2 way down on Page 1.

Also, post what engine you have, and mileage, that will help with info you'll need.

Bottom line is.......getting codes, and testing the sensors, fuel pressure test and so on save a lot of just swapping (guesting) out parts.

 

Thank you very much for the links. I thought I had stated the engine but I did not. It's the 302 with 111,000 miles. I already checked for codes and there were none. That I did remember to state in the post. Again thank you.

 

My bad.......yes you did state that you checked for codes.

If you disconnected the battery for more that 20 minutes, the codes will be cleared from the PMC.

Which kind of gives me an idea..........if the codes are cleared, then your running in "open loop" from the PCM, as in when the engine is started from cold as you stated........when the engine warms up, and you drive 50+ miles, the PCM has learned, and is in operating mode, so if you have a problem with one or more sensor, the PCM is going to react to that.

Another thing to check, which is not too hard to do, is to pull the PCM out, it pulls out from the front of the bulk head, and open up the case, and inspect the circuit board, the capacitors of this era tend to leak, and cause all kinds of problems, they can be replace, but it is better to just get a re-maned PCM that has been flashed with the engine, and install a "new" PCM.

 

Interesting...I did disconnect the battery when I cleaned the MAF. looks like I have a full day tomorrow. Thanks again. I'll post results.

 

When it starts in the morning, do you hear the fuel pump buzz for a second or two before turning the key to start? If so, do you hear the same buzz during a hot restart?

When it just cranks during a hot restart attempt, is there spark?

Sixto
93 E150 Chateau 5.8 190K miles

 

You know what, I didn't hear it.....but it was a louder area when I tried and was going to do it when I got home where it was quieter but I didn't. I did not check for spark because of the the fact it started then died right after, I just assumed it was a fuel issue. I am going to test for spark and fuel pressure tomorrow as well as electrical connections to fuel pump. I will post results.

First off though I am going to get it warm then listen for fuel pump as you suggested. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Well I traced my problem back to a bad fuel pressure regulator. Thank you for your help. Now on to the other problems.

 

I traced my problem back to a bad fuel pressure regulator. Thanks a lot for your help. Should I make a new post saying that my problem has been solved? Not sure of the etiquette around here. Thanks again.

 

You did the best anyone could ask. You fixed it and told us the source of the problem. Don't need another thread at all. Giving some good reputation to those who helped you out is always a good thing.

Welcome,
George